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» Enjoy the summer with great make-up

For beautifully made-up lips, sparkling eyes and an unblemished complexion to show our best face to the world, we happily use a wide range of products offered by cosmetics manufacturers to create an attractive look. This is particularly true during the summer months when a whole range of new, glamorous products are launched onto the market.

What demands should be made of make-up products?

Adam BorkowskiIn principle, the same as of any other beauty and personal care product.

• Preparations such as make up and powder should not only fulfil their purpose; they should also be free of any ingredients which could damage the skin.

• This applies in particular to products which are used in the sensitive area around the eyes and lipsticks which generally end up in the stomach as a proportion is swallowed, whether intentionally or otherwise. Most decorative products contain a large quantity of dye-stuffs.

• Between five and eight percent of dye pigment is used in mascara and make-up,

• In lipsticks, the proportion is around 10 percent,

• In eye-shadows, as much as 30 percent.

Unfortunately, many colours do not simply represent pure joy, as certain dyes are questionable from a toxicological point of view. But that is not all. As we have seen with the products presented here, conventional make-up products can contain a whole range of problematic ingredients. See “Problematic ingredients in decorative cosmetics” at the end of this presentation.
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  Kosmetika: Die Themen
 
   
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  Highlights ...

I have never before seen a product like SANTE Lip-Duo Contour & Gloss. At first I wondered what it was, but now this pen is one of the permanent items in my handbag. It is hard on one side (lip-liner pencil) and soft of the other (lipstick). Not a bad idea!
The two Dr Hauschka Natural Pastels Kajal Eyeliner Duos also serve an interesting dual purpose. Their two sides both contain a basic colour combined with a fashionable colour such as green or blackberry. 		 
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spacer spacer spacer Brighter than ever: natural and organic cosmetics

Because decorative cosmetics can contain questionable ingredients, many women are turning to natural alternatives such as certified decorative cosmetics with natural ingredients such as plant oils, vegetable wax, plant extracts and natural colouring.

• As far as colours are concerned, natural and organic cosmetics have never been brighter.
This is because the dye-stuffs industry has developed a diverse range of bright colours which create beautiful vibrant, pearly effects. The basic principle is simple: the individual minerals are carefully combined together in thin layers. The different possible combinations create wonderful, varied, colourful, vibrant, glittery effects. The fine-particle interference pigments are so tiny that they cannot be identified as pigments with the naked eye. The ingredients for these pigments are natural raw materials such as titanium dioxide, mica, silica and iron oxide.
• This progress has significantly increased the range of colours for powder products as well as lipsticks, mascaras and eye-liners. These pigments have also been used in modern lip-gloss formulations.
• For fans of natural cosmetics who are interested in new products:
Sante has recently created a complete new, comprehensive deco programme. Fresh, young, attractive design. With 99 different shades.
The new “Natural Pastels Limited Edition” range by Dr Hauschka is small but high quality.
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I. Product evaluations:
Make-up

The terms foundation, base coat and make up refer to products which are applied in addition to the normal day-cream. Make-up should provide coverage. As is the case of all other creams, it consists of an emulsion made from oils, fats and wax combined with powder components such as talcum and coloured pigments. Make-up can therefore be highly beneficial to the skin.
• The coverage provided by make up depends its thickness. Runny make-up, generally water in oil emulsions, provide light cover whilst creamier products provide stronger cover, thicker make-up even more and the so-called camouflage products (theatre make-up) the most intensive cover.
• As the following products indicate, conventional make-up products differ significantly from natural cosmetics. They contain different basic ingredients (e.g. silicones instead of plant oils), generally exthoxylated instead of natural emulsifiers and above all totally different preservatives.
 
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  SANTE: Soft Cream Foundation, sunny beige No 03
Certification: BDIH controlled natural cosmetics 		 
 
SANTE Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua (Water)
666 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
666 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil*
666 Glycerin
666 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
666 Squalane
666 Talc
666 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
666 Palmitic Acid
666 Stearic Acid
6 Parfum (Essential Oils)
666 Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
666 Lauryl PCA
666 Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
666 Punica Granatum Seed Extract*
666 Sorbitol
666 Galactoarabinan
666 Xanthan Gum
666 Hydrogenated Lecithin
666 Sodium Citrate
666 Ascorbyl Palmitate
666 Lecithin
666 Citric Acid
666 Tocopherol
666 Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
666 Farnesol
666 [+/-CI 77891, CI 77492, CI 77491]
*organic cultivation
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666 to 66 Basic / active ingredients
The basic oils constituting this product include the best cosmetic oils such as organic soya oil (in 3rd position in the INCI list) and organic jojoba oil (in 5th position in the INCI list). However, the main oil is a chemically transformed plant oil. The make-up also contains moisturising glycerine and other natural skin-care products such as cupuacu butter, organic pomegranate extract and the active ingredient lauryl PCA. The main powder component is talcum. All colourings are natural.
666 Preservation
The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives. The essential oils declared as perfumes are also used as preservatives.
666 Organic quality
Soya oil (in 3rd position in the INCI list), jojoba oil (in 5th position in the INCI list) and pomegranate extract (Punica granatum seed extract) are obtained by organic cultivation.
 
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  Dr. Hauschka: Translucent Make-up 01
Certification: BDIH controlled natural cosmetics 		 
 
Dr. Hauschka Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
666 Alcohol
666 Anthyllis Vulneraria Extract
666 Daucus Carota Extract
666 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
666 Persea Gratissima Oil
666 Simmondsia Chinensis Oil
666 Glycerin
666 Althaea Officinalis Leaf Extract
666 Cetearyl Alcohol
666 Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
666 Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
666 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
666 Rosa Damascena Flower Wax
666 Cera Flava
6 Parfum
666 Limonene*
666 Linalool*
666 Citronellol*
666 Geraniol*
666 Coumarin*
666 Citral*
666 Benzyl Benzoate*
666 Eugenol*
666 Bentonite
666 Xanthan Gum
666 Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
666 CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77891, CI 77007
* Component of natural essential oil
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666 Basic / active ingredients
If the Sante and these Dr Hauschka products were comparable in price, the Dr Hauschka formulations would have a slight advantage. One of the differences is the use of alcohol as a skin-care ingredient after water and hydrogenated vegetable oil (in the Sante product), which classifies the quality below that of a homogeneous, authentic plant oil. The high natural skin-care quality of this Dr Hauschka make-up is based on the best plant oils and extracts such as macadamia nut oil, avocado and jojoba oil, vetch, okra and witch hazel extract. It also contains glycerine as a moisturiser, and natural waxes and natural colourings.
666 Preservation
No synthetic preservatives are used. Since alcohol is in the 2nd position in the INCI list, it acts as a preservative.
666 to 66 Organic quality
Not clear from the list of ingredients. According to the BDIH certification, however, jojoba oil (in 7th position in the INCI list) and shea butter (in 13th position in the INCI list) must have been cultivated organically.
 
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  Couleur Caramel: Fond de teint
Certification: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio
  
 
Couleur Caramel Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
666 Centaurea Cyanus (Cornflower) Water*
666 Glycerin
666 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
666 Simmondsia Sinensis (Jojoba)*
666 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
666 Decyl Oleate
666 Decyl Olivate
666 Glyceryl Oleate Citrate
666 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*
666 Cetyl Alcohol
666 Microcrystalline Cellulose
666 Equisetum Arvense (Horstail) Extract*
666 Citrillus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil*
666 Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Oil*
666 Squalane
666 Cellulose Gum
666 Xanthan Gum
666 Squalene
666 Tocopherol
666 Alcohol
666 Phytic Acid
666 Dehydroacetic Acid, C
666 Benzyl Alcohol, C
6 Parfum/Fragrance
666 Citral
666 Linalool
666 Limonene
666 May contain: CI 77891, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499
 *ingredients obtained from organic agriculture
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66 Basic / active ingredients
This make-up contains a mixture of water and plant liquid followed by moisturising glycerine. The main oil is not a genuine plant oil, but an ester oil, followed by jojoba oil. Two additional ester oils are used (decyl oleate and decyl olivate). A slightly more authentic plant oil, almond oil, is in 10th position in the INCI list. Skin-care ingredients such as cetyl alcohol, squalane and three plant extracts are also used.
For information on ester oils, see “ester oils versus genuine plant oils”
666 to 66 Preservation
Preservation (dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol) is mild.
666 to 66 Organic quality
Jojoba oil (in 5th position in the INCI list), a small amount of almond oil (10th position) and the three extracts in 13th, 14th and 15th position in the INCI list. According to the manufacturer, 30.45% of the ingredients are obtained from organic cultivation. The lion’s share however consists of plant liquids (in 2nd position in the INCI list) consisting essentially of water. According to the French certification guideline, it should nevertheless be classified as an organic ingredient. This is not allowed for BDIH and NaTrue certification. Only pure plant-based ingredients can be included in the calculation according to BDIH and NaTrue certification.
 
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  La Roche-Posay: Unifiance Fluide
 		 
 

La Roche-Posay

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  INCI
6 Aqua
666 Cyclopentasiloxane
6 Environmental score 66
666 Isododecane
6 Skin-care score 66
666 Glycerin
666 Alcohol denat.
666 Silica
666 Pentylene Glycol
666 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
666 Nylon-12
666 Kaolin
666 Magnesium Sulfate
666 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
666 Tocopherol
666 Acetylated Glycol Stearate
  Environmental score 66
666 Tristearin
666 Allantoin
666 Zinc PCA
666 Diphenyl Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
666 Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
666 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
666 Bisabolol
666 Disteardimonium Hectorite
666 Aluminium Hydroxide
666 + / - may contain: CI 77891, CI 77499, CI 77492, CI 77491
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6 Basic / active ingredients
Anyone who compares this formulation with L’Oréal make-up will see how similar the basic ingredients are. The same silicone oil, glycerine and the oil component isododecane (a special kind of paraffin) constitute the main basic ingredients. The same powder component is also used, namely synthetic nylon-12. Emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers are evaluated as good in addition to certain skin-care substances and ingredients such as allantoin and zinc PCA. Pentylene glycol is a synthetic wetting agent, however. The negative points consist of two additional silicone ingredients (one exthoxylated). Overall, however, this make-up has a “cleaner” formulation than some of the other conventional products.
666 Preservation
The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives.
Organic quality
NA
 
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  Yves Rocher: Teint Fluide Matté
 		 
 

Yves Rocher

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  INCI
6 Aqua
666 Glycerin
666 Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water
666 Dicaprylyl Carbonate
666 Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
  Environmental score 66
666 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
666 Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate
666 Isododecane
  Skin-care score 66
666 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
666 Methylpropanediol
666 Polyglyeryl-4 Isostearate
666 Trisiloxane
6 Environmental score 66
666 Ethylhexyl Caprylate/Caprate
666 Hexyl Laurate
666 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
666 Sodium Chloride
666 Alcohol
666 Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  Environmental score 66
666 Disteardimonium Hectorite
666 Salicylic Acid, C
6 Parfum/Fragrance
666 Scutelaria Baicalensis Root Extract
666 Cyclohexasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
666 Triethoxycaprylylsilane
  Environmental score 66
666 May contain: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77891
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6 Basic / active ingredients
Water and plant liquid followed by glycerine, which is a good start, but the basic ingredients then consist mainly of chemicals which are harmful to the environment. The product is labelled “Couleurs nature”. This is true for the colours, but otherwise there are very few natural components in this product. Just one extract (in a very small quantity) can be found near the end of the INCO list. The manufacturer is happy to advertise as the “leader in plant-based cosmetics” and has developed a green image. However, with 9 ingredients which have nothing green about them, this product speaks a totally different language. Good skin-care ingredients but a negative report.
666 to 66 Preservation
Preservation is mild.
Organic quality
NA
 
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  Nivea: Energy Flash 03 Vibrant Beige  
 

NIVEA

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  INCI
6 Aqua
666 Cyclomethicone
  Environmental score 66
666 Dimethicone
66 Environmental score 66
666 Glycerin
666 Mica
666 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
666 Squalane
666 Dicaprylyl Ether
666 Butyrospermum Parkii
666 Lauroyl Lysine
666 Myristyl Lactate
666 C12-16 Alcohols
666 Hydrogenated Lecithin
666 Palmitic Acid
666 Tocopheryl Acetate
666 Retinyl Palmitate
666 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
666 Tin Oxide
666 Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate
666 Silica
666 Xanthan Gum
666 Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate
666 Citric Acid
666 Methylparaben
666 Ethylparaben
666 Butylparaben
666 Isobutylparaben
666 Propylparaben
666 Phenoxyethanol
666 Diazolidinyl Urea
6 Parfum
666 (+/- CI77891, CI77491, CI 77492, CI77499, CI77007)
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66 to 6 Basic / active ingredients
As indicated by the manufacturer, the two main ingredients of this “super-light formulation with lasting coverage” are silicone products which are detrimental to the environment. They are followed, however, by various natural, purely plant-based ingredients such as ester oils and shea butter. The product also contains antioxidants such as vitamins A, C and E and moisturising glycerine. Another positive point is the lauroyl lysine powder base. All the coverage substances and colourings are harmless. Compared with many other conventional products, the basic formulation of this product is positive.
66 Preservation
Unfortunately, the preservatives used include not only parabens and phenoxyethanol, but also diazolidinyl urea, which can release formaldehyde.
Organic quality
NA
 
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  Vichy: Normateint Fond de teint
 		 
 

VICHY

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  INCI
6 Water
666 Cycolpentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
666 Glycerin
666 Isododecane
  Skin-care score 66
666 Alcohol denat.
666 Nylon-12
666 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
666 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
666 Titanium Dioxide
666 Silica
666 Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate
666 Magnesium Sulfate
666 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
666 PEG-4 Dilaurate
666 PEG-4 Laurate
666 Stearic Acid
666 Algae/Algae Extract
666 Glycine Soja/Soybean Oil
666 Zinc PCA
666 Glycolic Acid
666 Methylparaben
666 Arginine PCA
666 Alumina
666 Aluminium Hydroxide
666 Phenoxyethanol, C
666 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
666 Nylon-66
666 Tocopherol
666 Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, C
666 Copper PCA Hautpflege
666 Disteardimonium Hectorite
666 Acrylates Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
666 Butylparaben, C
6 Parfum
666 May contain: CI77891, CI77499, CI77492, CI 77491
Spacer
 
6 Basic / active ingredients
This is still a standard synthetic cosmetic product. The main oil used is silicone oil (in 2nd position in the INCI list). The main powder base is chemical nylon-12. Three exthoxylated ingredients are also used. The sunscreen in 8th position in the INCI list is also synthetic. A positive evaluation has been made of the glycerine moisturisers and certain active ingredients such as copper PCA, zinc PCA, arginine PCA as well as seaweed extract and soya oil.
66 Preservation
Phenoxyethanol, one paraben and a halogenated organic compound.
Organic quality
NA
 
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  L’Oréal: Visible Lift Fond de teint
 		 
 

L’Oréal

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  INCI
6 Water
666 Cycolpentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
666 Glycerin
666 Nylon-12
666 Ethylhexyl Palmitate
666 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
666 Glyceryl Stearate
666 Glyceryl Isostearate
666 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
666 Carnauba Wax
666 Stearic Acid
666 Stearyl Alcohol
666 Triethanolamine
666 Butyrospermum Parkii/Shea Butter
666 Polysilicone-8
6 Environmental score 66
666 Magnesium Aluminium Silicate
666 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
666 Alcohol denat.
666 Diphenyl Dimethicone
666 Environmental score 66
666 PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate
666 Phenoxyethanol
666 Diazolidinyl Urea
666 Methylparaben
666 Butylparaben
666 Retinyl Palmitate
666 Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl
666 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
666 Sodium Hydroxide
666 Polycaprolacetone
666 Pisum Sativum/Pea Extract
666 Crithmum Maritimum Extract
666 May contain: CI77891, CI77492, CI77499, CI77491
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6 to 66 Basic / active ingredients
The main ingredients are the ones generally used in synthetic chemistry. They consist above all of silicone ingredients (in 2nd, 9th, 15th and 19th position in the INCI list) with nylon-12 as the main powder base. The product contains natural emulsifiers rather than PEGs. A negative point is the use of the buffer substance triethanolamine, which is questionable in terms of health and which can produce nitrosamine, and the halogenated organic compound acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl.
The active ingredients include a synthetic sunscreen in first position (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate). Otherwise, there are no notable ingredients apart from small quantities of shea butter and vitamin A. Two plant extracts are at the bottom of the INCI list after the plant extracts and are thus only present in tiny quantities.
66 Preservation
Phenoxyethanol, two parabens and unfortunately also the preservative diazolidinyl urea, which can release formaldehyde.
Organic quality
NA
 
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  Estée Lauder: Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10  
 

Estée Lauder

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  INCI
6 Water
666 Cycolpentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
666 Trimethylsiloxysilicate
66 Environmental score 66
666 Titanium Dioxide
666 Butylene Glycol
666 Tribehenin
666 PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone
66 Environmental score 66
666 Sorbitan Sesquioleate
666 Magnesium Sulfate
666 Tocopheryl Acetate
666 Phenyl Trimethicone
6 Environmental score 66
666 Polymethylsilsesquioxane
66 Environmental score 66
666 Methicone
6 Environmental score 66
666 Laureth-7
666 Xanthan Gum
666 Alumina
666 BHT
666 Sodium Dehydroacetate, C
666 Imidazolidinyl Urea, C
666 Chloroxylenol, C
666 Phenoxyethanol, C
666 May contain: Iron Oxides (CI 77491), CI 77492, CI 77499)
666 Mica
666 Titanium Dioxide (CI77891)
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6 to 66 Basic / active ingredients
This make-up is the leading synthetic chemical product. The main oil is a silicone oil (in 2nd position in the INCI list) followed by other ingredients which are detrimental to the environment and two exthoxylated ingredients. The moisturiser butylene glycol is also a synthetic chemical. One positive point is the fact that the sunscreen is not a synthetic but a mineral product. However, the antioxidant BHT is also present. The colourings are harmless. The reason for the inflated price remains one of the manufacturer’s secrets.
66 Preservation
Unfortunately, a high degree of preservation with a substance which can release formaldehyde and a halogenated organic compound. Sodium dehydroacetate (harmless) and phenoxyethanol are also used.
Organic quality
NA
 
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Problematic ingredients in decorative cosmetics

• Azo dyes
These synthetically produced colour pigments have been subjected to tests for many years due to their potential risks. Azo dyes can trigger allergies and some have already proven to be highly toxic.

• Nitrosamine
Supervisory authorities continue to withdraw products with an unauthorised nitrosamine content from decorative product markets, particularly in products such as mascara and eye-pencils. Because nitrosamines are so dangerous, cosmetics should not contain ingredients in which there is even a risk of their formation. For this reason, the banning of halogenated substances as preservatives provides additional security.

  

• Silicone
Silicones which are detrimental to the environment are used in oil in conventional make-up products. They are used in lipsticks as an adhering formulation.

• PEG
Foundations contain emulsifiers which combine water and oil phases together. Exthoxylated emulsifiers tend to be used in conventional products.

• Questionable preservatives
A number of synthetic preservatives can produce irritation or may belong to the particularly problematic group of halogenated organic compounds.
 
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