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» What exactly is a serum?

Serums are generally of very light texture and rapidly penetrate the skin. Their strength lies in their high concentration of active ingredients. This makes a good serum an effective skin-care product in addition to normal cream.

When and how should I apply a serum?

The use of a serum is recommended whenever the skin shows “symptoms”, for example when it appears to be irritated, tired or rough or shows other signs of increased dryness. Because serums are very light formulations and the skin also needs protective oil, a serum should be used in addition to the normal day- and night-cream. The length of treatment will be indicated by the condition of the skin. In general, short-term use is recommended over a period of a few weeks.

We should not rely on advertising promises

I would like to introduce you to some serums which produce vitalising effects. These serums are also referred to as anti-wrinkle or anti-ageing serums because they make up for moisture deficits, strengthen the skin’s natural barriers and alleviate feelings of tightness.
However, not every serum which promises so much actually fulfils its promises. Because a serum is generally fairly expensive, it is advisable to pay attention to the ingredients. Not all serums guarantee the promised treatment to make them worth their price. Serums can also contain certain problematic ingredients.

 
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  Kosmetika: Die Themen
 
   
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  Logona:
Age Protection Lifting Serum
  
 
Logona: Age Protection Lifting Serum Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua (Water)
6 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil*
6 Alcohol*
6 Glycerin
6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
6 Squalane
6 Silica
6 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
6 Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*
6 Palmitic Acid
6 Stearic Acid
6 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*
6 Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Caffeine
6 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6 Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
6 Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
6 Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract*
6 Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Cone Extract*
6 Centella Asiatica Extract
6 Parfum (Essential Oil)
6 Tocopherol
6 Sodium Lactate
6 Lactic Acid
6 Maltodextrin
Constituents of essential oils: 6
6 Linalool
6 Limonene
6 Citral
6 Geraniol
6 Benzyl Cinnamate
6 Coumarin
Colourings: 6
6 CI 77891
6 CI 77491
* from organic production
 
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666 Base/ingredients
This serum contains a concentration of plant extracts to provide extra moisture and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. These plant extracts are: bamboo and tiger grass extract, witch hazel and hop cone extract. Natural caffeine and an extract of Indian myrrh activate cell metabolism and help to combat wrinkles. The effective moisturiser glycerine is in 4th position in the INCI list. The cocktail of extracts in this serum is part of a base consisting of authentic plant oils including soya bean oil, jojoba oil, olive oil and shea butter.
666 Preservation
The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives. Since alcohol is positioned towards the top of the INCI list, it plays a part in the preservation of products.
666 Organic quality
The organic quality is very high as organic-quality soya bean oil is used as one of the main oils (2nd position in the INCI list). The other oils used include organic jojoba oil, organic olive oil, organic shea butter, organic witch hazel extract, organic hop cone extract and organic alcohol.
 
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  Dr. Hauschka:
Regeneration Serum		  
 
Dr. Hauschka: Regenerations Serum Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua (Water)
6 Alcohol
6 Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract
6 Glycerin
6 Trifolium Pratense Extract
6 Algin
6 Kalanchoe Daigremontiana Extract
6 Mel
6 Parfum
Constituents of essential oils: 6
6 Limonene
6 Geraniol
6 Citronellol
6 Linalool
6 Benzyl Benzoate
6 Farnesol
6 Citral
6 Eugenol
Other ingredients: 6
6 Sucrose Laurate
6 Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
 
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666 bis 66 Base/ingredients
This serum does not contain any oils but instead only contains moisturisers to freshen and firm dry, more mature skins (glycerine, quince seed extract, red clover / Mexican hat plant extract/bryophyllum and clover honey).
666 Preservation
The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives. Since alcohol is positioned towards the top of the INCI list, it plays a part in the preservation of products.
Organic quality
No organic quality is evident from the INCI declaration.
 
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  L’Oréal:
Age Perfect Sérum Fondamental Re-Substaneur		  
 
L’Oréal: Age Perfect Sérum Fondamental Re-Substaneur Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Glycerin
6 Alcohol denat.
6 Cyclohexasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Isohexadecane
  Skin-care score 66
6 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
  Skin-care score 66
6 Jasminum Officinalis Extract
6 Mel
6 Linalool
6 Geraniol
6 Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
6 Caffeine
6 Cholesterol
6 Coumarin
6 Limonene
6 Ammonium Polyacryldimethyl Tauramide
  Environmental score 66
6 Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
  Environmental score 66
6 Isopropyl Myristate
6 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
6 Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
6 Citronellol
6 Biosaccaride-Gum 1
6 Benzyl Benzoate
6 Phenoxyethanol, C
6 Caprylyl Glycol
6 Parfum
6 Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Propylparaben, C
6 Ethylparaben, C
6 Butylparaben, C
  FIL B32574/2
 
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6 Base/ingredients
Classic cosmetic chemistry sets the tone for this product. The moisturiser glycerine is combined with a silicone oil as the main oil ingredient. The two mineral oils which follow the silicon oil are not particularly beneficial for the skin. The bulk of the ingredients (from 9th position in the INCI list) are used in very small quantities. Notable ingredients include caffeine which encourages the circulation of the blood and the skin-care product hydrolysed soya protein. The “menopause innovation” element in this product is being kept secret by the manufacturer. Particular emphasis is placed on the classic glycerine and the combination of silicone and mineral oils.
6 bis 6 Preservation
Preserved with phenoxyethanol and parabens.
Organic quality
None.
 
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  Yves Rocher:
Sérum Végétal Intervention Corrective		  
 
Yves Rocher: Sérum Végétal Intervention Corrective Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Lentinus Edodes
6 Silica
6 Butylene Glycol
6 Propylene Glycol
6 Isononyl Isononanoate
6 Glycerin
6 Cyclohexasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Cetyl PEG/PPG 10/1 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Cetyl PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer
6 PEG 150
6 Acacia Segegal
6 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
6 Magnesium Sulfate
6 Mica
6 Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Parfum
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Lecithin
6 Ethyl Linoleate
6 Butylparaben, C
6 Macadamia Ternifolia
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Retinyl Palmitate
6 Allantion
6 Ethylparaben, C
6 Tetrasodium EDTA
6 Propylparaben, C
6 Helianthus Annuus
6 Beta-Carotene
6 CI 77891
 
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6 bis 6 Base/ingredients
The main ingredient is a silicone oil. This is followed by an extract of shitaki (type of mushroom) and two synthetic moisturisers, an ester oil, moisturising glycerine and another silicone oil. There is nothing “green” or plant-like about this product, as it contains a total of 5 silicone ingredients in addition to 4 exthoxylated ingredients and the highly polluting EDTA. A number of positive ingredients have been incorporated in the generally synthetic / chemical base, including an anti-ageing ingredient from the Senegal acacia and skin-protecting antioxidants (tocopheryl acetate and retinyl palmitate). As shown in the comparison with other products, this is a classic chemical formulation. The claim that the product will achieve “82% wrinkle reduction within a month” demonstrates just how irritating advertising can be, as this has only been testified by 22 women (see asterisk). The consumer is not told how, with what means or whether any visible effects were noted.
6 Preservation
Preserved with parabens.
Organic quality
None.
 
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  Estée Lauder:
Sérum correcteur rides		  
 
Estée Lauder: Sérum correcteur rides Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Water (Aqua purificata) Purified
6 Cyclomethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Polysilicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Silica
6 Butylene Glycol
6 Yeast Extract (Faex)
6 Dimethicone Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 Morus Niger (Mulberry) Root Extract
6 Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract
6 Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract
6 Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract
6 Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Extract
6 Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
6 Centella Asiatica (Hydrocotyl) Extract
6 Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract
6 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract
6 Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
6 Disodium Distyrylbiphenyl Disulfonate
6 Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
6 Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
6 Polysorbate 40
6 Silybum Marianum (Lady’s Thistle) Extract
6 Sodium beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate
6 Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Glycerin
6 Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 Cholesterol
6 Linoleic Acid
6 Squalane
6 Panthetine
6 Sodium Hyaluronate
6 HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
6 Sodium Chloride
6 Sodium Carbomer
  Environmental score 66
6 Polysorbate 20
6 Fragrance (Parfum)
6 Disodium EDTA
6 Potassium Sorbate, C
6 Phenoxyethanol, C
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Mica
6 Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
6 ILN 23359
 
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6 bis 6 Base/ingredients
The base of this product consist of a mixture of silicone oils and the synthetic moisturiser butylene glycol. The other ingredients include a yeast extract which is kind to the skin, a combination of 12 plant extracts and the antioxidant aminipropyl ascorbyl phosphate. The product contains a number of other skin-care ingredients in addition to moisturising glycerine and hyaluronic acid. In addition to the polluting gel and film formers, two exthoxylated ingredients are also used, as well as the highly polluting EDTA.
6 bis 6 Preservation
Preserved with phenoxyethanol, methyparaben and potassium sorbate.
Organic quality
None.
 
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