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  Kosmetika: Die Themen
 
   
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» Luxury Anti-Ageing Products:
the More Expensive the Better?

We will provide a comprehensive comparison of anti-ageing creams in this forum in the near future. As “luxury anti-ageing products” become more and more popular – also in the natural and organic cosmetics sector – I had a closer look at some of these products.

  • Plant oils and extracts form the traditional repertoire of anti-ageing ingredients used in natural cream formulations intended to protect, strengthen and improve the tone of the skin.
  • Some brands also use more recently developed, individual, plant-based active ingredients with anti-ageing properties.

How can we explain the difference
between €6.98 for 10 ml and €19.97 for 10 ml?

What does a cream that is more than twice as expensive per millilitre as
another cream have to offer? Is there so much “added value”? This is the question.
You will find the answer in the analyses provided below.

  • Authentic plant oils have been marked in blue to illustrate the oil quality of the products more clearly.
  • As authentic plant oils are an important active ingredient, the question is also where they appear on the INCI list - high up or near the bottom. The higher up the plant oils appear on the list, the better, as the ingredients used in the highest quantities are placed at the top of the list.
  • Plant extracts and other relevant active ingredients are marked in red.
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The best quality oil comes at a price
Price: for 1 kg oil

Caprylic/capric triglyceride (ester oil) 3,30 €
Bioquality almond oil 20,00 €
Bioquality olive oil 6,00 €
Bioquality avocado oil 18,00 €
 
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  Aquabio: Thalasso day cream
Certification: BDIH certified natural cosmetics
50 ml £ 29,75 - 10 ml = £ 5,95		  
 
Aquabio Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua (Water)
6 Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil
6 Glycerin
6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
6 Squalane
6 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
6 Cetearyl Alcohol
6 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*
6 Parfum (Essential Oils)
6 Distarch Phosphate
6 Sucrose Stearate
6 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6 Betaglucan
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
6 Titanium Dioxide
6 Caffeine*
6 Crithmum Maritimum Extract
6 Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Lactic Acid
6 Sodium Lactate
6 Zinc Oxide
6 Cetearyl Glucoside
6 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
6 Potassium Sorbate, C
6 Maris Sal (Sea Salt)
6 Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
6 Spirulina Platensis Extract
6 Tocopherol
6 Stearic Acid
6 Aluminum Hydroxide
6 Linalool
6 Limonene
6 Benzyl Salicylate
6 Geraniol
6 Citral
6 Coumarin
6 Benzyl Benzoate
* from organic farming
marked in blue: authentic plant oils
marked in red: other active ingredients
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666 Basic
To begin, let’s have a look at the first few ingredients listed after water. These are the most important oil ingredients used to produce the base. How many active ingredients does the oil base of this cream contain?
• This cream has a high content of good, authentic plant oils such as broccoli seed, jojoba and almond oil. Each of these oils offers a wide range of active ingredients that keep the skin feeling fresh, supple, toned and elastic.
• This is complemented by a high glycerine content (to improve the moisture content of the skin) and a high level of plant-derived squalane (estimated content: about 5%), which ensures that the skin feels silky and supple.
• The product contains no alcohol.
666 Active ingredients
The oils, which are rich in active ingredients, are supplemented with the best plant-based active ingredients featuring anti-ageing properties. These include plant extracts with their moisturising, skin-protecting and -nurturing properties on the one hand and special active ingredients on the other.
• The plant extracts used include samphire extract and two algae extracts.
• Samphire extract (crithmum maritimum extract) has an effect similar to that of vitamin E, offering protection against the ageing processes caused by free radicals.
• Algae, with their high content of vitamins and minerals, protect the skin and have a moisturising (toning) effect.
• Beta-glucans are another active ingredient with anti-ageing properties. They are extracted from oyster mushrooms and reinforce the skin's natural powers of resistance.
• This apple-core extract (pyrus malus seed extract) has a special anti-wrinkle effect.
• Other active ingredients with anti-ageing properties include vitamin E (protects against free radicals) and caffeine, which aids blood circulation and is reputed to stimulate cell renewal.
666 to 66 Preservation
Unusual in organic cosmetics: this cream is sold in pots. It nevertheless contains only very mild preservatives (potassium sorbate). The preservatives are as gentle as that of many organic cosmetic products sold in tubes or similar dispensers.
666 Organic Quality
According to the manufacturer, this cream contains 16.5% bioquality plant oils (bioquality jojoba and almond oil). This is complemented by biocaffeine.
 
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  Dr. Hauschka: Regenerating Day Cream
Certification: BDIH certified natural cosmetics
40 ml £ 48,98 - 10 ml £ 12,24 		 
 
Dr. Hauschka Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua (Water)
6 Simmondsia Chinensis Oil
6 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
6 Olea Europaea Oil
6 Alcohol
6 Persea Gratissima Oil
6 Glycerin
6 Rosa Damascena Extract
6 Cera Alba
6 Sucrose Laurate
6 Rosa Damascena Distillate
6 Hectorite
6 Trifolium Pratense Extract
6 Althaea Officinalis Extract
6 Limonene
6 Citronellol
6 Linalool
6 Geraniol
6 Benzyl Benzoate
6 Farnesol
6 Citral
6 Eugenol
6 Benzyl Salicylate
6 Lysolecithin
6 Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
6 Mel
6 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
6 Equisetum Arvense Extract
6 Kalanchoe Daigremontiana Extract
6 Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract
6 Chondrus Crispus Extract
6 Glyceryl Stearate
6 Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
6 Stearic Acid
marked in blue: authentic plant oils
marked in red: other active ingredients
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666 Basic
This cream consists of traditional natural and organic cosmetics ingredients. This means that the effects are due to the plant oils and extracts used. Beneficial plant oils rich in active ingredients include jojoba oil, almond oil, olive oil and avocado oil. Glycerine has been added to improve the moisture content of the skin.
666 to 66 Active ingredients
This cream does not make use of any of the more recent individual active ingredients. Its composition is in line with the Dr. Hauschka philosophy, offering plant oils plus other holistic active ingredients (a combination of plant extracts).
• The main ingredient is an extract of Damascan rose and rose water (with a harmonising effect).
• Red clover extract is used to counteract premature skin ageing.
• Okra extract moisturises and leaves the skin feeling supple.
• Raspberry seed oil has a protective effect on the skin similar to that of vitamin E.
• At the end of the list is a mixture of extracts of field horsetail (to strengthen the connective tissue), bryophyllum (moisturising), acerola cherry (skin-protecting vitamin C) and red algae.
• The product has a relatively high alcohol content (see Preservatives).
666 Preservation
The product does not contain any special preservatives. As alcohol is near the top of the INCI list, it probably contributes towards product preservation.
666 Organic Quality
This is not evident from the INCI list. According to the “rules” of BDIH certification, however, the jojoba and olive oils must be organically cultivated. Some shea butter has been added to this.
 
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  Laveré Solution: Power Royal Day - Intensive Day Cream SPF 5
Certification: Certfied natural cosmetic BDIH
30 ml £ 59,00 €, 10 ml £ 19,66 		 
 
Laveré Solution Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua (Water)
6 Glycerin
6 Alcohol*
6 Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*
6 Squalane
6 Silica
6 Cetyl Alcohol
6 Hydrogenated Lecithin
6 Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
6 Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
6 Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
6 Ceramide 3
6 Lecithin
6 Sodium Hyaluronate
6 Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
6 Glycine  Soja (Soybean) Germ Extract*
6 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*
6 Lysolecithin
6 Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate
6 Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
6 Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract*
6 Maltodextrin
6 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract*
6 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*
6 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
6 Tocopherol
6 Ascorbyl Palmitate
6 Fragrance (Parfum)
6 Citral
6 Geraniol
6 Citronellol
6 Limonene
6 Linalool
6 Benzyl Benzoate
6 Benzyl Salicylate
* from organic farming
blau markiert: die echten Pflanzenöle
rot markiert: weitere Wirkstoffe
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666 to 66 Basic
What forms the basis of this product? The main oil used in this cream is olive oil.
• Olive oil is undoubtedly one of the main oils used in skin-care products. It is absorbed well by the skin, making it soft and smooth, and possesses excellent skin-care qualities.
• In contrast to creams in which genuine plant oils play a major role, olive oil is in 4th position in the INCI list.
• Plant oils play a limited role overall. Other genuine plant oils are only used in small quantities (jojoba oil, almond oil and shea butter).
• The main ingredients include a large quantity of squalene (which softens the skin).
• The cream contains a large proportion of alcohol.
666 Active ingredients
• Some of the main active ingredients are active ingredients to improve the moisture content of the skin, like glycerine, hyaluronic acid, lecithin and extracts from, for example, the brown algae, Ascophyllum nodosum.
• The product offers a sun protection factor of 5. The light protection filter used is the mineral light-protection filter, titanium dioxide (in 9th position in the INCI list).
• Vitamin E and vitamin C are used as anti-aging ingredients which protect the skin (against free radicals).
• Red clover extract is believed to stimulate the skin’s cells.
• Wheat germ extract is rich in vitamins, particularly vitamin E. It helps to eliminate dead skin cells and it freshens the skin.
• Ceramide 3 is one of the active ingredients which increase the resistance of the lipid barrier to external influences. Grape seed extract also strengthens the skin’s barrier when it is exposed to attack.
• Bearberry extract (Arctostaphylos uva Ursi leaf extract) alleviates age spots and pigmentation.
666 Preservation
The product does not contain any specific preservatives. Since alcohol is in a high position in the INCI list, it probably plays a part in preserving the product.
666 Organic Quality
Organic olive oil, jojoba oil, wheatgerm extract, almond oil, red clover, grape seed extract, Shea butter and organic alcohol.
 
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  Aubrey Organics: Lumessence Lift Firming Renewal Cream

1 oz (approx. 30 ml) = € 29.35 - 10 ml = € 9.78		  
 
Aubrey Organics Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua (Water)
6 Cetyl Alcohol
6 Alcohol Denat.
6 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*
6 Glycerin
6 Rosa Rubiginosa (Rosa Mosqueta) Seed Oil*
6 Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein
6 Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract
6 Phospholipids
6 Ubiquinone
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Sodium PCA
6 Santhenol
6 Sodium Hyaluronate
6 Retinyl Palmitate
6 Ascorbyl Palmitate
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Arginine
6 Lysine
6 Glycine
6 Proline
6 Acidophilus/Grape Ferment
6 Glyceryl Linoleate
6 Glyceryl Linolenate
6 Pullulan
6 Algae Extract
6 Corthellus Shiitake (Mushroom) Extract
6 Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract
6 Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
6 Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water
6 Ascorbic Acid
6 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf
6 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
6 Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
6 Beta-Carotene
6 Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Extract
* from organic farming
marked in blue: authentic plant oils
marked in red: other active ingredients
INCI source: www.aubrey-organics.com
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66 Basic
What is the quality of the main ingredients, i.e. the first few listed after water?
• Plant oils rich in active ingredients play a subordinate role in the base of this product. The main ingredients are cetyl alcohol, which can also be used as an emulsifier in high concentrations, and alcohol, which is probably also used for its preservative properties. These are followed by oils/fats in the form of shea butter and a little rose oil. Good, authentic plant oils offer a broad range of active ingredients that provide protection and comprehensive care for the skin. If a cream has a low content of authentic plant oils, this means that many natural active ingredients have been left out.
• Advertisements for this product do not even mention oils. The main sales point is a complex of active ingredients. The consumer has no way of checking the total content of the active ingredients used.
666 to 66 Active ingredients
As the items marked in red show, the long list of active ingredients starts with grapefruit extract (in 8th position on the INCI list).
• Assuming that the usual amounts of active ingredients are used, the 1% range starts with phospholipids (in 9th place on the INCI list) or tocopheryl acetate (in 11th place on the INCI list).
• It must be assumed that numerous ingredients are used in tiny amounts of less than 0.10%. In the case of hyaluronic acid, for example, 0.10% is already regarded as a great deal. The question is whether the “a little bit of everything” approach is truly a recipe for success! Generally speaking, the active ingredients in this product consist of 2 complexes that protect the skin against premature ageing processes and improve skin tone. These are:
• 1. Antioxidants to strengthen the skin's own protective powers and neutralise free radicals. The most important of these is Q10 (ubiquinone). They are complemented by skin-protecting vitamins and extracts, such as watermelon extract.
• 2. Active ingredients to improve the moisture content of the skin. This includes glycerine, oat protein, amino acids, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA as well as moisturising plant extracts.
• The product has a high alcohol content (see Preservatives).
666 Preservation
The product does not contain any special preservatives. As alcohol is near the top of the INCI list, it probably contributes to product preservation.
66 Organic Quality
Only two ingredients of bioquality were used: shea butter (in 4th place on the INCI list) and rose oil (in 6th place on the INCI list).
 
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