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  Kosmetika: Die Themen
 
   
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» Product comparison:
anti-ageing cream (part 1)

In part 1, I would like to present a product comparison of creams that are not certified as natural and organic cosmetics.

  • More detailed information on the subject of anti-ageing products, conventional cosmetics and the results of natural and organic cosmetics can be obtained from the article entitled “Anti-Ageing Products: Myth and Reality?”
  • Part 2 contains information on anti-ageing creams that are certified as natural and organic cosmetics.

Major differences in the quality of a large number of ingredients

The advertisements of large number of anti-ageing creams sometimes show an incredible discrepancy with the actual ingredients used in the cream.

  • Lifting effects are quite understandably put forward. This claim has been asserted to such an extent that a television advertisement in Germany was intermittently required to include the mention, “cannot be compared with the effects of cosmetic surgery”. Nature also plays a key role in many cases in advertising, even though there is no evidence of natural quality.
  • An obvious example of advertising using nature, despite the fact that the actual product barely contains any natural ingredients at all, is for the L’Oréal cream, “Vital Restore orchid extract”. L’Oréal claims that this cream is “Inspired by the lasting beauty and endurance of the orchid”. This can be little more than a hint of inspiration, as orchid extract is in 34th position (fourth from the last) on the INCI list. This indicates that very little orchid extract is actually contained in the cream.
  • Synthetic sunscreens, such as those used in sun creams, are contained in much larger proportions than orchid extract. Sunscreens of this type are used in a wide range of products. See (on the home page): “Anti-Wrinkle Creams: More Sun Protection than Day Cream”.
  • As these examples show, a large number of products differ in their main ingredients (the basic ingredients), as is the case with normal creams.
  • Discussions surrounding many conventional creams are dominated by the problem of silicon oils, which have a negative effect on the environment.
  • The active ingredients are dominated by agents that improve the moisture balance of the skin and thereby enhance its firmness. The main component in this category is plain old glycerine.
  • Other products include skin protecting vitamins and extracts to revitalise the skin.
  • In order to help you to identify the most important active ingredients, genuine plant oils are marked in blue and other ingredients are marked in red.

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  Annemarie Börlind: LL Regeneration Dream

50 ml € 28.10 - 10 ml € 5.62 		 
 
Annemarie Börlind Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Ethylhexyl Stearate
6 Squalane
6 Glycerin
6 Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
6 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
6 Sorbitol
6 Glycine Soja (Soybean Oil)
6 Tribehenin
6 Lauryl Lactate
6 Polyglyeryl 3 Polyricinoleate
6 Sorbitan Oleate
4 Phenoxyethanol
6 Cera Alba (Beeswax)
6 Zinc Oxide
6 Alcohol
6 Magnesium Sulfate
6 Panthenol
6 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6 Cetyl Palmitate
6 Hypericum Perforatum Extract
6 Brassica Campestris (Rapseed) Sterol
6 Panthenyl Ethyl Ether
6 Bisabolol
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Aroma (Fragrance)
6 Phytantriol
6 Retinyl Palmitate
6 Ethylhexylglycerin
6 Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
6 Echinacea Angustifolia Extract
6 Ascorbyl Palmitate
6 Pyridoxine Tripalmitate
6 Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract
6 Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract
6 Tocopherol
3 Butylphenyl Methylpropional
6 Coumarin
6 Hydrogenated Palmglycerides Citrate
6 Linalool
6 Citronellol
6 Amyl Cinnamal
6 Lecithin
6 Geraniol
6 Eugenol
6 Hexyl Cinnamal
6 Citric Acid
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
666 to 66 Basic/active ingredients

This cream is a largely natural product. Its two main ingredients after water are ingredients which make the skin soft and smooth.

  • The basis also consists of calendula extract, shea butter and a small amount of soya oil.
  • The beneficial moisturising agents include glycerine, sorbitol and phytantriol in addition to a range of vitamins which protect and strengthen the skin such as panthenol, vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), vitamin A palmitata (retinyl palmitate) and vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate).
  • Other active ingredients include the anti-inflammatory product bisabolol and a number of plant extracts.
  • Extracts include St John’s wort (beneficial for the skin), witch hazel extract (firming), strengthening echinacea, camomile and sage extracts.
  • The general formulation of this cream is intended to improve the elasticity of the skin and protect it against the stresses and strains of the environment.
6 Preservation
The preservative used is phenoxyethanol.
Organic Quality
No organic ingredients have been identified.
 
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  Nivea: ExpertLift Day Cream SPF 15

50 ml € 17.90 - 10 ml € 3.58		  
 
Nivea Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Glycerin
6 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
6 Cetearyl Alcohol
4 Methylpropanediol
6 Ethylhexyl Salicylate (SPF)
6 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
6 Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (SPF)
6 Cetyl Alcohol
6 Glyceryl Stearate SE
6 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (SPF)
6 C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
6 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6 Pimpinella Anisum Extract
6 Sodium Hyaluronate
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Titanium Dioxide (SPF)
6 Cera Microcristallina
6 Chondrus Crispus
6 Sodium Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
6 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 Paraffinum Liquidum
  Skin-care score 66
6 Aluminium Hydroxide
6 Ethylhexylglycerin
6 Trisodium EDTA
6 Phenoxyethanol, C
3 Methylparaben, C
3 Butylphenyl Methylpropional
6 Citronellol
6 Limonene
6 Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
6 Linalool
6 Parfum
6 CI 16035
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 Basic/active ingredients

The base ingredients are the moisturiser glycerine and shea butter.

  • Shea butter is easily absorbed in the skin making it softer with a moisturising effect which promotes the absorption of other ingredients. Cetearyl alcohol is also used as a beneficial plant-based skin-care product.
  • The second moisturiser is synthetic.
  • Synthetic sunscreens are also used in this cream (in 6th, 8th and 11th position in the INCI list). But these sunscreens are not suspected of producing hormonal effects. The sunscreen with a value of 15 is nevertheless of a very high factor. Further information on the subject of sunscreens in anti-ageing creams can be found on the homepage “Anti-wrinkle creams: more sun protection than day cream”.
  • Products which used to be called “tightening” products are now generally referred to as “lift” or “lift effect”. They promise an effective moisturising effect on the skin which is obtained with ingredients which have been used for many years. This cream contains hyaluronic acid in addition to glycerine. Other active ingredients (which moisturise and protect the skin) include aniseed extract and vitamin E.
  • Small amounts of crude oil substances (paraffin wax, paraffin oil), silicone oil, EDTA which is extremely harmful to the environment and azo dye have a negative influence on the product make-up.
6 Preservation
The preservatives used are phenoxyethanol and methylparaben.
Organic Quality
None identified.
 
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  Diadermine: Lift + Intense Elastin

50 ml € 11.50 - 10 ml € 2.30		  
 
Diadermine Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Hexanediol
6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycride
6 Glycerin
6 Behenyl Alcohol
6 Arachidyl Alcohol
6 Cocoglycerides
6 Glyceryl Stearate
6 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (SPF)
6 Cetearyl Alcohol
6 Peudedanum Graveolens (Dill) Extract
6 Tocopherol
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
6 Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
  Environmental score 66
6 Lecithin
6 Butyrospermum Parkii
6 Sorbitan Oleate
6 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
3 Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate
6 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Arachidyl Glucoside
6 Sodium Carbomer
  Environmental score 66
6 Octocrylene (SPF)
6 Talc
6 Butylene Glycol
6 Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Aryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 Propylene Glycol
6 Polyisobutene
6 Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
6 Tetrasodium EDTA
6 Pentylene Glycol
6 Parfum
6 Phenoxyethanol, C
6 Ethylparaben, C
6 Methylparaben, C
6 CI 16035
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 Basic/active ingredients

The basis of this product has a “clean” formulation for a standard, good-value cream. For example, it does not contain any silicone oils or ethoxylated emulsifiers.

  • The main ingredient (hexanediol) is a polyvalent alcohol which is used as a moisturiser. An ester oil, which is also frequently used in certified natural cosmetics, is in 3rd position in the INCI list.
  • Other ingredients include glycerine (moisturiser) and four skin care substances and emulsifiers which are also authorised for natural cosmetics.
  • Ingredients producing negative effects include synthetic film formers and EDTA which are harmful to the environment and two synthetic sunscreens. However, the sunscreen element in this cream is not as marked as in certain other creams (see below). Further information can be found on the homepage “Anti-wrinkle creams: More sun protection than day cream”.
  • Positive active ingredients include dill extract, the skin protection product vitamin E, moisturising soya protein and hyaluronic acid (unfortunately combined with silicone) and shea butter.
  • The advertising on the product packaging is particularly irritating. The only really significant part is the information presented under “visible results” which reads: “Visibly improves the firmness of your skin with regular use”. This is true of every good cream formulation.
6 Preservation
The preservatives used are phenoxyethanol and two parabens.
Organic Quality
None.
 
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  Yves Rocher: Riche Crème wrinkle reducing night cream

50 ml € 31.00 - 10 ml €6.20		  
 
Yves Rocher Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Butylene Glycol
6 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Petrolatum
  Skin-care score 66
6 Methylpropanediol
6 Ethylhexyl Stearate
6 Cetyl Alcohol
6 Steareth-2
6 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Glyceryl Stearate
6 Vitis Vinifera
6 Elaeis Guineensis
6 Cocos Nucifera
6 Brassica Campestris
6 Steareth-21
6 Propylene Glycol
6 Ethylhexyl Cocoate
6 Urea
6 Helianthus Annuus
6 Lecithin
6 Parfum
6 Olea Europaea
6 Ethyl Linoleate
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Zea Mays
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Retinyl Palmitate
6 Panthenol
6 Allantoin
6 Carthamus Tinctoris
6 Corylus Avellana
6 Ricinus Communis
6 Macadamia Ternifolia
6 Simmondsia Chinensis
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Sorbic Acic, C
6 Glycine Soja
6 Triticum Vilgare
6 Prunus Persica
6 Prunus Armeniaca
6 Pistacia Vera
6 Persea Gratissima
6 Oryza Sativa
6 Magnifera Indica
6 Juglans Regia
6 Gossypium
6 Camellia Oleifera
6 Ethylparaben, C
6 BHT
6 Propylparaben, C
6 Rosa Moschata
6 Oenothera Biennis
6 Limnanthes Alba
6 Genuina Avellana
6 Carapa Guaianensis
6 Camelina Sativa
6 Argania Spinosa
6 Anacardium Occidentale
6 Butylparaben, C
6 Tetrasodium EDTA
6 Sodium Hydroxide
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 Basic/active ingredients

It is surprising how little some people care about deceiving customers! Is this cream really “rich” because it is made up of “30 precious oils”? The 20-page advertising brochure states that: “The Yves Rocher laboratories have selected 30 precious plant oils for the skin-care line Riche Crème 30”. Does this cream actually contain 30 plant oils and if so, what does that mean? Very little actually! The manufacturer does not disclose the quantities in which the plant oils are contained in a product. The customer can only guess.

  • Let us have a look at the INCI list for this night cream: after water (generally contained in proportions of 50 – 60% in a cream) comes the synthetic moisturiser butylene glycol as the main ingredient.
  • The other main ingredients include a silicone oil and one of the cheapest oils – the crude oil derivative petroleum jelly. These are really not “precious oils”. The product also contains a synthetic moisturiser / solvent, 2 adjuvants which make the skin smoother, two ethoxylated emulsifiers, another silicone oil and another skin softener / emulsifier.
  • The formulation also contains the problematic antioxidant BHT, as well as EDTA, which is extremely damaging to the environment.
  • It is estimated that between 80 and 85% of the cream is accounted for even before the first plant oil is identified.
  • The first plant oil is in 11th position in the INCI list. A large number plant oils are below the 40th INCI position after perfume together with preservatives, certain active agents and additives. 40 ingredients below perfume… this is a record-breading number of ingredients in minimum quantities! It is not possible to determine how many of these ingredients are plant oils, as there is no indication as to whether they are oils or extracts.
  • Let us assume that the wording “with 30 precious oils” is correct. How many plant oil is contained in a pot of cream? Maybe between 5% and a very optimistic 10%. This would correspond to between 2.5 and 5 ml or 1 or 2 teaspoons.
  • Argan oil, for example, is only identified right at the end. Could this product contain one or two drops of argan oil in a pot of cream? How much ever it is: The nature of the cream is determined by the main ingredients right at the top of the INCI list and these include a synthetic moisturiser, silicone oil and paraffin oil.
  • The way in which products in which plant oils play a significant role are formulated can be seen in certain creams found in the 2nd section in the product comparison “certified anti-ageing creams.”
6 Preservation
Preserved with sorbic acid and 3 parabens.
Organic Quality
No organic ingredients have been identified.
 
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  La Roche-Posay: Hydraphase Riche

50 ml € 17.10 - 10 ml € 3.42 		 
 

La Roche-Posay

 Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Glycerin
6 Butyrospermum Parkiii
6 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Polyethylene
  Environmental score 66
6 Paraffinum Liquidum
  Skin-care score 66
6 PEG-2 Stearate
6 Urea
6 Glyceryl Linoleate
6 PEG-100 Stearate
6 Glyceryl Stearate
6 Stearic Acid
6 Carbomer
  Environmental score 66
6 Glyceryl Linoleate
6 Glyceryl Oleate
6 Triethanolamine
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Disodium EDTA
6 Propylene Glycol
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Pentylene Glycol
6 Ethyhexylglycerin
6 Polysorbate 60
6 Cetyl Alcohol
6 Myristic Acid
6 Palmitic Acid
6 Citric Acid
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Propylparaben, C
6 Parfum
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 bis 6 Basic/active ingredients

The formulation of this cream is designed to improve the moisture balance of the skin and to make the skin smoother and firmer.

  • The two main ingredients of the product, the moisturiser glycerine and shea butter, play a positive role.
  • Shea butter is easily absorbed in the skin, makes it smooth and soft, enhances its moisture and encourages the absorption of other ingredients. The product also contains a silicone oil and a paraffin oil.
  • The other moisturisers used are urea and pentylene glycol. Vitamin E protects the skin (tocopheryl acetate).
  • Ethoxylated emulsifiers play a negative role in the product. As has been proven with many other standard creams, such emulsifiers are not really necessary.
  • Triethanolamine can form dangerous nitrosamines. This type of ingredient should be avoided for safety reasons.
  • The product also contains EDTA, which is extremely damaging to the environment.
6 Preservation
Two parabens are used as preservatives.
Organic Quality
No organic ingredients have been identified.
 
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  Vichy: NeoVadiol Intensive densifying care dry skin
Zertifizierung: nicht zertifiziert
50 ml 30,35 €, 10 ml 6,07 €		  
 

Vichy

 Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua/Water
6 Prunus Armeniaca
6 Glycerin
6 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Oryza Sativa
6 Zea Mays/Corn Starch
6 Butyrospermum Parkii/Shea Butter Fruit
6 Stearic Acid
6 Palmitic Acid
6 PEG-100 Stearate
6 Glyceryl Stearate
6 PEG-20 Stearate
6 Stearyl Alcohol
6 Cera Alba/Beeswax
6 BHT
6 Isohexadecane
  Skin-care score 66
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Phenoxyethanol, C
6 Cinnaminc Acid
6 Disodium EDTA
6 Phloroglucinol Trimethyl Ether
6 Capryl Glycol/Caprylyl Glycol
6 Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
6 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
6 Vitreoscilla Ferment
6 Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 Ethylparaben, C
6 Polysorbate 80
6 CI 19140
6 CI 42090
6 Parfum/Fragence
6 Code F.I.L. B12211/1
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 bis 6 Basic/active ingredients

What constitutes the basis of this cream?

  • Two beneficial ingredients are apricot seed oil and the effective moisturiser glycerine. However, the silicone oil cyclopentasiloxane (damaging to the environment) is also one of the basic substances in the product. It is followed by a number of other natural ingredients such as rice germ oil (moisturising), shea butter and two further beneficial components (emulsifier, skin-care product)
  • Soya protein and a skin-care ingredient obtained by biotechnological means are used as active ingredients.
  • Ingredients obtained by complex chemistry (such as ethoxylated emulsifiers), the problematic antioxidant BHT, EDTA that is extremely damaging to the environment and an azo dye all play a negative role in the product.
6 Preservation
Phenoxyethanol and 2 parabens are used as preservatives.
Organic Quality
None identified.
 
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  Garnier: Vital Restore Orchid extract SPF 15

50 ml € 9.00 - 10 ml € 1.80		  
 

Garnier

 Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Ethyhexyl Methoxycinnamate (SPF)
6 Glycerin
6 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil)
  Skin-care score 66
6 Myristyl Myristate
6 Triethanolamine
6 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (SPF)
6 Stearic Acid
6 Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide/Ammonium, Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
  Environmental score 66
6 Palmitic Acid
6 Titanium Dioxide (SPF)
6 Stearyl Alcohol
6 PEG-100 Stearate
6 Glyceryl Stearate
6 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
6 Acrylates Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 Alumina
6 Bifida Ferment Lysate
6 Biotin
6 Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
6 Caprylyl Glycol
6 Cetyl Alcohol
6 Dimethiconol
  Environmental score 66
6 Disodium EDTA
6 Ethylparaben, C
6 Faex/Yeast Extract
6 Glycine Soja Protein
6 Hydrated Silica
6 Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
6 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Orchis Mascula Extract
6 PEG-20 Stearate
6 Phenoxyethanol, C
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Parfum/Fragrance
6 F.I.L. B32403!/1
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 Basic/active ingredients

This cream should really be presented as a sunscreen. Its main ingredients include three synthetic sunscreens. The first is near the top of the INCI list, straight after water.

  • This sunscreen (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) has revealed a hormonal effect in tests on animals. It is absorbed through the skin and has been identified in breast milk.
  • The second synthetic sunscreen (in 9th position in the INCI list) does not present any risk. The 3rd is a mineral sunscreen.
  • For further information on sunscreens in anti-ageing creams, see also the section on the homepage entitled: “Anti-wrinkle creams: more sun protection than day cream”.
  • The oil phase of this cream consists principally of silicone oil which is damaging to the environment and paraffin oil.
  • The buffer substance triethanolamine, which can form dangerous nitrosamines, is in 7th position of the INCI list. This type of ingredient should be strictly avoided for safety reasons.
  • The most important moisturiser is glycerine. But where are the ingredients which make the cream what it claims to be (vital reconstruction, revitalising care)? The ingredients listed include orchid extract and soya protein.
  • The fact that orchid extract is right at the end of the INCI list means that it is only used in very small quantities. According to the motto, it looks impressive in the advertisement.
  • A more positive evaluation is given to moisturisers in the form of an ingredient obtained by biotechnological means from lactic acid (bifida ferment lysate), a wheat extract and soya protein.
6 Preservation
The preservatives used are phenoxyethanol and 2 parabens.
Organic Quality
None identified.
 
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  Biotherm: Aquasource

40 ml € 31.30 - 10 ml € 7.82		  
 

Biotherm

 Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Aqua
6 Alcohol denat.
6 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Prunus Armeniaca Apricot Kernel Oil
6 Butylene Glycol
6 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit
6 Carbomer
  Environmental score 66
6 Triethanolamine
6 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Panthenol
6 Hexylene Glycol
6 Phenoxyethanol
6 Parfum
6 Chlorphenesin
6 Xanthan Gum
6 Magnesium Gluconate
6 Serine
6 2-Oleamido-1,3Octadecanediol
6 Citrulline
6 Cholesterol
6 Limonene
6 Fructose
6 Glucose
6 Tocopherol
6 Vitreoscilla Ferment Extract
6 Biocsccharide Gum-1
6 Disodium EDTA
6 Butylphenyl Methylpropional
6 Hexyl Cinnamal
6 Benzyl Salicylate
6 Urea
6 Methoxypropanediol
6 Zinc Gluconate
6 Linalool
6 Ceramide 3
6 Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
6 Citral
6 Dextrin
6 Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
6 Benzyl Alcohol, C
6 Copper Gluconate
6 Hexyl Nicotinate
6 Sucrose
6 Glutamic Acid
6 Manganese Gluconate
6 CI 42090
6 CI 19140
6 Aspartic Acid
6 Alanine
6 F.I.L. B30753/1
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 bis 6 Basic/active ingredients

The main ingredients after water are denatured alcohol and a silicone oil. The product also contains apricot seed oil, the synthetic moisturiser butylene glycol and a small amount of shea butter.

  • The active ingredients include vitamin E which protects the skin (tocopheryl acetate) and panthenol (provitamin B5).
  • Triethanolamine is near the top of the INCI list. This buffer substance can form dangerous nitrosames. This type of substance should be strictly avoided for safety reasons.
  • The preservative phenoxyethanol should only be used to a maximum level of 1%. Since 37 INCI references are listed after phenoxyethanol for this cream, a large number of ingredients are present in extremely small quantities.
  • Even the preservative chlorphenesin comes before most of the active ingredients in this cream, which consist mainly of a range of different moisturisers.
  • The product also contains EDTA which is extremely damaging to the environment and an azo dye.
66 Preservation
Phenoxyethanol and the halogenated organic compound chlorphenesin are used as preservatives.
Organic Quality
None identified.
 
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  Estée Lauder: Day Wear Plus. Multi Protection SPF 15

50 ml € 43.00 - 10 ml € 8.60 		 
 

Estée Lauder

 Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Water (Aqua purificata)
6 Ethyhexyl Methoxycinnamate (SPF)
6 Ethylhexyl Salicylate (SPF)
6 Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
6 Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
6 Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
6 Steareth-2
6 Cetyl Ricinoleate
6 DI-C 12-15 Alkyl Fumarate
6 Polysilicone-11
  Environmental score 66
6 Butylene Glycol
6 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (SPF)
6 Pentylene Glycol
6 Steareth-12
6 Aspalathus Linearis (Red Tea) Leaf Extract
6 Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract
6 Coffee Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract
6 Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
6 Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
6 Betula Alba (Birch) Bark Extract
6 Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
6 Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract
6 Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
6 Rosmarinum Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract
6 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract
6 Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
6 Cholestorol
6 Phospholipids
6 Maltrodextrin
6 Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate
6 Cyclodextrin
6 Sodium Hyaluronate
6 Trehalose
6 Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
6 Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer
6 Panthetine
6 Linolenic Acid
6 Oryzanol
6 Lecithin
6 Squalane
6 Linoleic Acid
6 Glycerin
6 Sodium PCA
6 Urea
6 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6 Polyethylene
  Environmental score 66
6 Behenyl Alcohol
6 Sodium Carbomer
  Environmental score 66
6 Tromethamine
6 Stearyl Alcohol
6 PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer
  Environmental score 66
6 Polyquaternium-51
6 Carbomer
  Environmental score 66
6 Fragance (Parfum)
6 Linalool
6 Butylphenyl Methylpropional
6 Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
6 Benzyl Salicylate
6 Disodium EDTA
6 Benzyl Alcohol
6 Potassium Sorbate, C
6 Benzoic Acid, C
6 Chlorphenesin, C
6 Phenoxyethanol, C
6 Methylparaben, C
6 Ethylparaben, C
6 Propylparaben, C
6 Butylparaben, C
6 Isopropylparaben, C
6 Isobutylparaben, C
6 CI 19140
6 CI 42090
6 CI 77289
6 ILN26779
Marked in blue: genuine plant oils
Marked in red: other active ingredients
Spacer
 
6 Basic/active ingredients

This cream should also really be presented as a sunscreen. Its main ingredients (in 2nd and 3rd position in the INCI list) are two synthetic sunscreens. A third also features in 12th position in the INCI list.

  • The sunscreen ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate has revealed a hormonal effect in tests on animals. It is absorbed through the skin and has been identified in breast milk.
  • The second sunscreen does not present any risk.
  • The third (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) is also a chemical sunscreen with a hormonal effect.
  • For further information on the subject, see also the section on the homepage entitled “Anti-wrinkle creams: more sun protection than day cream”.
  • The basic formulation of this cream could hardly be more synthetic! The oil phase consists chiefly of silicone additives which are damaging to the environment. The product also contains synthetic moisturisers such as butylene glycol and pentylene glycol. Other moisturisers include phospholipis, hyaluronic acid, glycerine, sodium PCA and urea.
  • The only notable natural constituent is a mixture of plant extracts in the middle of the INCI list.
  • A second group of ingredients consists of additives which protect and strength the skin including panthetine, oryzanol (from rice germ) and ascorbyl tocopheryl maleate (vitamins E + C). Nordihydroguaiaretic acid is an antioxidant which is suspected of causing eczema.
  • The product contains a number of ingredients that are damaging to the environment, including EDTA. It also contains the buffer substance tromethamine, which can form dangerous nitrosames. Such substances should be strictly avoided for safety reasons. An azo dye is also contained in the product.
66 Preservation
The product contains 10 (!) preservatives including phenoxyethanol, 6 parabens and the halogenated organic compound chlorphenesin.
Organic Quality
None identified.
 
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