Product comparison:
anti-ageing cream (part 2)
In part 2, I would like to present a product comparison with creams that are certified as natural and organic cosmetics.
- More detailed information on the subject of anti-ageing products, conventional cosmetics and the capacity of natural and organic cosmetics can be obtained from the article entitled “Anti-Ageing Products: Myth and Reality?”
Clear differences in terms of oil quality
The advertisements of large number of anti-ageing creams sometimes show an incredible discrepancy with the actual ingredients used in the cream.
- There is such a wide range of descriptions of active agents for anti-ageing products that it is almost impossible to see that nearly all of them come from four main sources: vitamins, phytohormones, polyphenols and flavonoids. What do wheat germ oil, soya extract and green tea have to with it?
- Wheat germ oil is rich in vitamins, soya extract is rich in phytohormones and green tea extract is rich in catechins which are part of the polyphenol family.
- This means that a significant amount of what is referred to as the specific “anti-ageing power” of ingredients is naturally present in ingredients such as plant oils and plant extracts. Moreover, every plant-based additive is in itself a real “cocktail of ingredients”. The secondary plant-based ingredients contained in oils are particularly valuable.
- However, in certain anti-ageing creams which are certified as organic cosmetics, no reference is made to the natural richness of active ingredients offered by genuine plant oils. Ester oils are used instead, which are significantly different from genuine plant oils. Ester oils do not offer the same richness in terms of active ingredients which is particularly significant for the important secondary plant-based ingredients.
- In order to help you to identify the most important active ingredients, genuine plant oils are marked in blue and other ingredients are marked in red.
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Logona: Age Protection Nurturing Day Cream
Certification: Certified natural cosmetic BDIH
30 ml £ 24.00 - 10 ml £ 8.00 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Alcohol* |
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Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil |
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Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil* |
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Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil* |
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Glycerin |
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Squalane |
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Palmitic Acid |
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Stearic Acid |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit* |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil* |
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Tocopheryl Acetate |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Sodium PCA |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Hydrogenated Lecithin |
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Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract |
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Glycine Soja (Soybean) Germ Extract |
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Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract* |
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Crithmum Maritimum Extract |
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Parfum (Essential Oil) |
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Tocopherol |
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Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride |
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Sodium Hydroxide |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
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Citral |
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Geraniol |
| * organically produced ingredient |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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  Basis / Active ingredients |
What are the basic oils contained in this product? The list of ingredients indicated in blue includes 3 genuine plant oils, namely broccoli seed oil, soya and jojoba oil, which are positioned towards the top of the INCI list. Together with shea butter, argan oil and a large quantity of the skin care ingredient squalene (in 7th position in the INCI list), these ingredients are intended to optimise the softness, freshness and elasticity of the skin.
- Soya oil contains a high proportion of lecithin and the skin care product, vitamin E. It holds in moisture whilst soothing and firming the skin.
- Jojoba oil has a positive smoothing and moisturising effect.
- Shea butter penetrates into the skin producing a softening effect while holding in moisture and encouraging the absorption of other active ingredients.
- The richness of the ingredient argan oil makes it an excellent radical scavenger and offers optimum protection for dry, rough skin.
- Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) is another active ingredient which combats stress on the skin through free radicals.
- The best moisturisers and firming agents are glycerine, sodium PCA and Aloe vera extract.
- Green tea extract is rich in natural polyphenols whose effectiveness is wide ranging.
- Wheatgerm extract is rich in vitamins, particularly vitamin E. It helps to eliminate dead skin cells and freshens the skin.
- Samphira, a sea fennel extract, strengthens a thinning epidermis and plays a significant role in protecting the skin against premature ageing.
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  Preservation |
| The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives. |
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  Organic quality |
| According to the manufacturers, 35% of the ingredients used in this product are of organic origin of which 23% stem from organic plant oils (soya, jojoba oil, shea butter and argan oil). The product also contains organic alcohol and organic Aloe vera extract. |
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Weleda: Wild Rose Day Cream
Certification: Certified natural cosmetic BDIH
30 ml £ 9.95 - 10 ml £ 3.32 |
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INCI |
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Water (Aqua) |
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Alcohol |
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Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil |
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Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil |
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Glycerin |
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Rosa Moschata Seed Oil |
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Glyceryl Oleate |
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Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax |
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Beeswax (Cera Flava) |
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Magnesium Aluminum Silicate |
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Fragrance (Parfum) |
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Sedum Purpureum Extract |
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Rosa Damascena Flower Wax |
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Equisetum Arvense Extract |
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Commiphora Myrrha Extract |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) |
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Glyceryl Stearate SE |
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Sodium Beeswax |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
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Citronellol |
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Benzyl Alcohol |
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Geraniol |
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Citral |
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Eugenol |
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Farnesol |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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Tautropfen: Amalur Day Cream
Certification: Certified natural cosmetic BDIH
50 ml € 49.00 - 10 ml € 9.80 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Alcohol* |
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Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil* |
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Glycerin |
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Glyceryl Palmitate |
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Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate |
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Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil* |
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Cera Alba (Beeswax)* |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)* |
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Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract* |
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Mel (honey) |
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Magnesium Aluminium Silicate |
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Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate |
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Arginine |
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Aroma (Fragrance) |
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Linalool |
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Tocopherol |
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Citronellol |
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Eugenol |
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Limonene |
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Geraniol |
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Benzyl Benzoate |
| * organically produced ingredient |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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farfalla: Anti Aging Nourishing Cream
Certification: Certified natural cosmetic BDIH
50 ml 28.50 € - 10 ml 5.70 € |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Rosa Damascena* |
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Alcohol |
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Prunus Dulcis* |
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Aloe Barbadensis* |
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Cetearyl Wheat Bran Glucosides |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Butyrospermum Parkii* |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride |
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Simmondsia Chinensis* |
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Hypericum Perforatum* |
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Glycerin |
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Centella Asiatica |
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Squalane |
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Glyceryl Stearate |
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Cera Alba |
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Sodium Hyaluronate |
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Parfum |
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Tocopherol |
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Triticum Vulgare Gluten Acid |
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Asparagopsis Armata |
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Phytic Acid |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Lactic Acid |
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Benzyl Benzoate |
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Benzyl Salicylate |
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Citral |
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Citronellol |
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Geraniol |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
| * organically produced ingredient |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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  to  Basis / Active ingredients |
What are the basic oils contained in this product? The list of ingredients indicated in blue shows that this cream is based on almond oil.
- Almond oil is a very mild oil which is kind to the skin. The product also contains Shea butter, an ester oil and a small amount of jojoba oil.
- Shea butter penetrates into the skin producing a softening effect whilst holding in moisture and encouraging the absorption of other active ingredients.
- Jojoba oil has a positive smoothing, firming and moisturising effect.
- St John’s wort oil protects and strengthens the skin.
- The other active ingredients consist above all of ingredients which improve the moisture balance of the skin (firming, smoothing). They include:
- A large proportion of Aloe vera, glycerine, a wheat-based moisturiser, an algae extract (Asparagopsis armata) and hyaluronic acid.
- Tiger grass extract (Centella asiatica) contains healing, regenerating ingredients which protect the skin.
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  Preservation |
| The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives. |
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 Organic quality |
| Organic almond oil is used in addition to organic Shea butter, organic jojoba oil and organic St John’s wort oil. However, the most notable ingredient is the highly aqueous organic hydrolate (rosewater). Organic Aloe vera is also used. |
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Earth Line: ACEQ10 Day & Night Cream
Certification: Certified natural cosmetic BDIH
50 ml £ 14.99 - 10 ml £ 3.00 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Helianthus Annuus |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate |
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Glycerin |
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Glyceryl Stearate |
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Prunus Dulcis |
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Buxus Chinensis (neue Inci: Simmondsia Chinensis) |
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Macadamia Ternifolia |
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Butyrospremum Parkii |
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Squalane |
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Ubiquinone |
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Symphytum Officinale |
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Cocos Nucifera |
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Salicylic Acid, C |
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Betaine |
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D Alpha Tocopherol |
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Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate |
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Daucus Carota |
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Lactic Acid |
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Phytic Acid |
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Ascorbic Acid |
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Citric Acid |
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d Limonene |
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Eugenol |
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Farnesol |
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Geraniol |
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Linalool |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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  to  Basis / Active ingredients |
What are the basic oils contained in this product? The list of ingredients indicated in blue shows that this cream is based on sunflower oil.
- Sunflower oil makes rough skin soft and smooth.
- Other plant oils contained in smaller quantities include almond oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil and Shea butter.
- This cream also contains the moisturiser glycerine.
- Skin protecting Q10, vitamin E and vitamin C are used as specific anti-ageing ingredients.
- The product also contains an extract of the medicinal plant comfrey and carrot extract.
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 Preservation |
| This cream is supplied in pots. It is nevertheless preserved using gentle products (salicylic acid). The preservation process is just as gentle as the one used for many organic cosmetic products which are supplied in tubes or similar dispensers. |
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  to  Organic quality |
| Not clear from the INCI list. However, according to the BDIH guidelines, the sunflower oil, shea butter and jojoba oil used must be of organic origin. |
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Tocophea: Firming Day Cream
Certification: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio
50 ml 21.90 € - 10 ml 4.38 € |
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INCI |
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Vaccinium Myrtillius (Balberry) Aqua* |
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Ribes Nigrum (Black Current) Aqua* |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride |
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Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Oil* |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter* |
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Oryza Sativa Starch |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Vaccinium Mytillius (Balberry) Oil* |
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Ribes Nigrum (Black Current) Oil |
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Hydrogenated Caprylyl Olive Esters |
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Cetearyl Glucosides |
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Biosaccaride Gum 1 |
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Tocopherol |
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Daucus Carotta Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract* |
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Punica Granatum (Pomrgranate) Extract* |
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Malpighia Punicifolia (Acerola Fruit) Extract* |
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Parfum |
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d-limonene |
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Linalool |
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Sclerotium Gum |
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Sodium Benzoate, C |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Matrodextrin |
| * organically produced ingredient |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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 Basis / Active ingredients |
This cream shows highlights the importance of looking very closely at the INCI list. It starts off with two very good marks but they are allocated to two plant waters (blackcurrant and bilberry).
- This means that plant waters are used instead of normal water. This does not offer any significant benefit in terms of the quality of the cream compared with normal water but pushes up the organic share so that it is effective for advertising purposes.
- An important position is represented by the 3rd place which stands for the main additive of the oil phase. However, this is not represented by a genuine plant oil but by an ester oil.
- The basic ingredients also include a certain proportion of Shea butter. Shea butter penetrates into the skin producing a softening effect whilst holding in moisture and encouraging the absorption of other active ingredients.
- A number of ingredients follow the “red fruit” advertising concept. Red fruit provides beneficial active ingredients but there is a whole range of other plant-based ingredients which produce very good skin care and anti-ageing effects.
- The following products contain active ingredients from red fruit: raspberry oil (invigorating, astringent) and a blackcurrant oil (makes the skin smooth and soft).
- The product also contains extracts of carrot and pomegranate.
- The acerola cherry extract contains the skin-care ingredient vitamin E.
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 Preservation |
| The preservatives used are sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and benzyl alcohol. |
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 Organic quality |
| According to the manufacturer, this product is 81% organic. However, the main organic ingredients are two plant waters which contain a very small proportion of plant product and large quantities of water. The entire water phase in this product consists of plant water. The following ingredients are also of organic quality: raspberry oil, bilberry oil and 3 extracts. |
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BcomBio: Intense Age Defying Anti-Wrinkle Cream
Certification: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio
50 ml £ 24.50 - 10 ml £ 4.90 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Coryllus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil* |
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Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein |
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Glyceryl Stearate |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Glycerin |
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Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil* |
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Squalane |
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Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 |
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Hydrolyzed Soy Protein |
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Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract* |
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Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract |
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Stearic Acid |
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Palmitic Acid |
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C16-18 Fatty Acids |
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Sodium Benzoate, C |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Parfum |
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Tocopherol |
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Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil |
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Glycine Soja Oil |
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Linalool |
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Limonene |
| * organically produced ingredient |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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  to  Basis / Active ingredients |
What are the basic oils contained in this product? The list of ingredients indicated in blue shows that this cream is essentially based on hazelnut oil.
- Hazelnut oil has a smoothing effect and preserves the suppleness of the skin.
- This oil is followed by an ingredient with beneficial skin care characteristics. The suppleness of the skin is also improved by the ingredient squalene. Sunflower oil and soya oil are also contained in other plant oils in very small quantities.
- The moisturiser glycerine is in 6th position in the INCI list. The other active ingredients used include:
- Acetyl hexapeptide-8, a synthetic active ingredient, used to minimise the development of fine lines.
- Soya protein is also used as a revitalising active ingredient.
- Camomille d'Or and a copper beech extract (Bourgeons de hêtre) are believed to protect the skin against premature ageing by means of free radicals.
- NB: this product contains a large number of chemically modified ingredients rather than truly authentic natural ingredients.
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 Preservation |
| The preservatives used are sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and benzyl alcohol. |
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Organic quality |
| According to the manufacturer, this product is 12.25% organic. The main oil (hazelnut oil) is of organic quality. Organic sunflower oil and an extract (copper beech) are also used. |
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Lift’Argan: Firming day care Anti-wrinkles
Certification: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio
50 ml 24,70 € - 10 ml = 4,94 € |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil* |
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Lauryl Laurate |
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Octyldodecanol |
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Dicaprylyl Carbonate |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides |
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Cetearyl Olivate |
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Glycerin |
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Lauroyl Lysine |
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Sorbitan Olivate |
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Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract* |
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Borago Offincinalis Seed Oil* |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter* |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Magnesium Aluminium Silicate |
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Sucrose Polybehenate |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Parfum |
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Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate |
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Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract* |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Tocopheryl Acetate |
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Lactic Acid |
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Dehydroacetic Acid, C |
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Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil |
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Hordeum Vulgare Extract* |
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Limonene |
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Sodium Benzoate, C |
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Linalool |
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Sodium Hyaluronate |
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Sodium Chloride |
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Citronellol |
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Citral |
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Tocopherol |
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Geraniol |
| * organically produced ingredient |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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 Basis / Active ingredients |
What are the basic oils contained in this product? Argan oil is in first position in the INCI list. The packaging states that this cream contains 4% argan oil. This means that all the ingredients below argan oil are used in quantities of less than 4%. This indeed has to be the case.
- Argan oil is followed by four ester oils and therefore no genuine plant oils.
- The moisturiser glycerine is only in 8th position in the INCI list and authentic plant-based oil additives (borage seed oil and Shea butter) follow in 12th and 13th positions in the INCI list.
- Particular emphasis is placed in this product on “des actifs végétaux aux bienfaits hydratant, anti-age et liftant”. Where are they? Two extracts apart from the 4% argan oil are mentioned: an extract of alfalfa and oat extract.
- Argan oil is undoubtedly a beneficial additive and no objections can be raised against the two extracts. However, this cream is unfortunately lacking in the richness of genuine plant oils and it could contain more active ingredients.
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 Preservation |
| The preservatives used are benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid and sodium benzoate. |
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 to Organic quality |
| According to the manufacturer, this product is 21% organic. Organic argan oil is listed under the ingredients with a content of 4%. Five other ingredients from the INCI list are referred to on the packaging as organic additives (in 11th, 12th, 13th, 20th and 26th positions). Whilst argan oil, which is at the top of the INCI list after water, is the main oil with a content of 4%, this product only contains a small percentage of oils/fats of organic origin, as the other two additives (borage seed oil and shea butter) are much further down (in 12th and 13th positions in the INCI list). |
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Melvita Naturalift: Anti-ageing Cream
Certification: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio
50 ml £ 29.36 - 10 ml £ 5.87 |
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INCI |
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Aqua (Water) |
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Tilia Cordata Water (Tilia Cordata Flower Water)* |
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Dicaprylyl Ether |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride |
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Octyldodecanol |
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Glycerin |
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Arachidyl Alcohol |
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Carthamus Tinctorius Oil (Safflower) Seed Oil* |
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Behenyl Alcohol |
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Parfum /Fragrance |
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Stearic Acid |
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Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract* |
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Cera Alba (Beeswax) |
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Camelina Sativa Seed Oil* |
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Dextrin |
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Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract |
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Argania Spinosa Extract |
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Sodium Benzoate, C |
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Arachidyl Glucoside |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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Cellulose |
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Hectorite |
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Citric Acid |
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Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate |
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Tocopherol |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Limonene |
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Hordeum Vulgare Extract* |
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Buddleja Davidii Extract |
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Geraniol |
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Citronellol |
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Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract |
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Linalool |
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Castanea Sativa Extract* |
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Benzoic Acid, C |
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Citral |
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Farnesol |
| * organically produced ingredient |
| Marked in blue: genuine plant oils |
| Marked in red: other active ingredients |
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 Basis / Active ingredients |
This cream claims to be “Exceptionellement riche ein principes atifs naturels”. The most noticeable feature of this product is that an important category of ingredients is scarcely accounted for, namely genuine plant oils.
What are the basic oils contained in this product? The list of ingredients indicated in blue shows that none of the main oil additives are authentic plant oils.
- Only ester oils are used as basic oils. This deprives the product of a considerable richness in terms of active ingredients which genuine plant oils can offer. This is especially true of the particularly valuable secondary plant-based ingredients.
- The main active ingredient is glycerine which is used to enhance the moisture of the skin.
- The product also contains a certain amount of safflower oil (kind to the skin, moisturising, smoothing) and cameline oil (in 14th position in the INCI list, which softens the skin).
- An extract of copper beech (Bourgeons de hêtre) is used to protect the skin against premature ageing.
- Hibiscus protein is an active ingredient used to minimise fine lines.
- Argan extract has a protective effect for dry, rough skin. The product also contains barley extract, an extract of bauxite and an extract of buddleia.
- This product is particularly prized for its extracts, including those which are contained in very small quantities, such as chestnut extract in the penultimate position in the INCI list.
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 Preservation |
| The preservatives used are sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol and benzoic acid. |
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Organic quality |
| Because this cream hardly contains any genuine plant oils as basic oils, it is not particularly well evaluated in terms of organic quality. It is based above all on a plant water (lime-blossom water) which contains only a small proportion of plant-based products and a large quantity of water. The product also contains a certain amount of safflower oil (in 8th position in the INCI list), copper beech extract, cameline oil and, much lower down the list, barley and chestnut extracts. |
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La Roche-Posay: Hydraphase Riche
50 ml € 17.10 - 10 ml € 3.42 |
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