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  Kosmetika: Die Themen
 
   
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» Lip care products

Dry, rough, chapped lips become a problem particularly in the winter months when the lips are exposed to damp, cold conditions. There are no sebaceous glands in the lips and the corneal layer is thin. We therefore tend to moisten them constantly with saliva, generally subconsciously. The lips need protective care in order to keep them healthy and smooth.
The care products resented here are skin to colourless lipsticks. A lipstick base is mixed which consists above all of fats, waxes and oils. Wax regulates the consistency: products containing more wax tend to be denser, whilst those containing more fat are smoother and softer.

Carcinogenic paraffin oils: caution is advocated even with lip care products

The main question, even with lip care products, concerns the type of basic ingredients used. A potential problem is posed by paraffin oils.

  • Many people suffer from permanently dry lips combined with an unpleasant flakiness. The more cream they apply, the more irritated the lips become. The cause of this unpleasant phenomenon is generally a high proportion of paraffin oils. This is because paraffin oils are not “breathable” and they form a closed film on the skin. If large amounts of these oils are used, the lips ward off impurities with the result that cream has to be applied more frequently. With products containing a smaller proportion of paraffin oils, this effect can be prevented by combining other raw materials.
  • However, the fundamental question is raised as to whether paraffin oils should be used at all. Certain paraffin additives have been classified as being carcinogenic. Because a certain proportion of lipsticks enter the body (by being “eaten”), this potential risk needs to be assessed with caution (see box below). This is reflected in the grading of products containing mineral oils and waxes as well as other questionable ingredients such as BHT and certain synthetic sunscreens.
  • As shown in the following examples, problematic ingredients can easily be avoided. Natural ingredients such as plant oils and waxes provide an excellent alternative particularly for lip care products.


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  Florame: Lip Balm
Certificaton: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio
15 ml 10,00 € - 1 ml 0,67 € 		 
 
Florame Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil*
6 Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter*
6 Cera Alba (Beeswax)*
6 Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Fruit Oil*
6 Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil*
6 Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil*
6 Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil
6 Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Flower Oil*
6 Pelargonium Graveolens (Bourbon Geranium) Oil*
6 Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil*
6 Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Oil*
6 Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil
6 Cistus Landaniferus (Cistus) Oil*
6 Tocopherol
6 CI 77491
6 CI 77891
6 Limonene
6 Linalool
6 Geraniol
6 Citral
6 Citronellol
INCI source: www.florame.fr
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666 Basis / Active ingredients
The long INCI list needs to be divided into three sections. Part 1 contains the first 3 ingredients, which are caster oil, cocoa butter and beeswax. Part 2 contains the next 10 ingredients which consist of a mixture of essential oils. This type of mixture is generally only declared under one name (perfume / fragrance). The remaining ingredients are vitamin E to stabilise the product, 2 natural colorants and the declared share of essential oils.
Preservation
No preservatives are used (this is not necessary for anhydrous formulations).
666 Organic quality
According to the details provided by the manufacturer, 99% of the ingredients are of organic origin.
 
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  Balm Balm: Lip balm (and more)
Certification: Soil Association
7 ml £ 2,99 - 1 ml £ 0,43		  
 
Balm Balm Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Nut) Fruit
6 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
6 Cera Alba (Beeswax)
6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
6 Calendula Officinalis (Mariagold) Flower Extract
6 Pelargonium Graveolens Roseum (Geranium) Oil
6 Citral
6 Geraniol
6 Citronellol
6 Limonene
6 Linalool
 
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666 Basis / Active ingredients
This lip balsam is made exclusively from natural ingredients (Shea butter, sunflower oil, beeswax, jojoba oil, calendula extract, essential geranium oil). This product is not very practical as it is not available in stick form or in a squeezable tube, but only in a small tin from which the balsam can be applied with the finger.
Preservation
No preservatives are used (this is not necessary for anhydrous formulations).
666 Organic quality
According to the details provided by the manufacturer, all the ingredients are of organic origin.
 
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  Primavera: Hydro Lip Balm
Certification: NaTrue (3 stars)
10 ml 12,00 € - 1 ml 1,20		  
 
Primavera Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil*
6 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*
6 Cera Alba*
6 Jojoba Esters
6 Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Powder
6 Tocopherol
6 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax*
6 Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil*
6 Fragrance (Parfum)
6 Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil*
 
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666 Basis / Active ingredients
This lip balsam is also based on natural ingredients such as caster oil, Shea butter, beeswax, carnauba wax and blackcurrant oil. The product is quite pricey!
Preservation
No preservatives are used (this is not necessary for anhydrous formulations).
666 Organic quality
The three main ingredients are of organic origin (caster oil, Shea butter and beeswax). The product also contains carnauba wax, blackcurrant oil and essential bitter orange oil.
 
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  Sante: Lip Balm Lotus & White Tea
Certification: Certified natural cosmetic BDIH
10 ml 5,90 € - 1 ml 0,59 €		  
 
Sante Spacer
   
  INCI
6 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
6 Tricapylin
6 Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
6 Cera Alba (Beeswax)
6 Lanolin
6 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
6 Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
6 Mica
6 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil*
6 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
6 Parfum
6 Tocopherol
6 CI 77891
6 CI 75470
 
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666 to 66 Basis / Active ingredients
This lip care product is based on a genuine plant oil (caster oil). This is followed by an ester oil, beeswax and 4 plant-based waxes (including berry wax carnauba wax). The product also contains argan oil and jojoba oil. The two colorants used are natural.
Preservation
No preservatives are used (this is not necessary for anhydrous formulations).
6 Organic quality
The argan oil and jojoba oil are of organic origin.
 
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  Lancôme: Nutrix Lipstick

4,4 ml 19,50 € - 1 ml 4,43 €		  
 

Lancôme

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  INCI
6 Sesamum Indicum/Sesame Seed Oil
6 Petrolatum
  Skin-care score 66
6 Lanolin Liquida/Lanolin Oil
6 Cera Microcristallina/Microcrystalline Wax
  Hautpflegenote 66
6 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter/Shea Butter
6 Cera Alba/Beeswax
6 Paraffin
  Skin-care score 66
2 Linalool
6 Geranol
6 Bisabolol
2 Farnesol
2 Citronellol
6 Disteardimonium Hectorite
5 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
6 Tocopherol
6 Ascorbyl Palmitate
2 Benzyl Alcohol
6 Parfum/Fragrance
6 May contain:
6 CI 77891
 
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6 to 66 Basis / Active ingredients
Sesame oil provides a positive starting point but it is followed by a paraffin oil (petrolatum) and, after lanolin oil, a paraffin wax. See the box below for details on the specific problems with paraffin additives in lipsticks. The other ingredients are Shea butter, beeswax and another paraffin additive. The product also contains the synthetic sunscreen methoxycinnamate. This sunscreen has produced hormonal effects in tests on animals. It penetrates through the skin and can be found in breast milk. Because a significant proportion of lipsticks is ingested, paraffin additives and certain synthetic sunscreens need to be assessed with caution. If we consider the list of ingredients, then we are bound to reach only one conclusion: the price is ridiculously high!
Preservation
No preservatives are used (this is not necessary for anhydrous formulations).
Organic quality
None.
 
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  Clarins: Moisture Replenishing Lip Balm

15 ml 12,30 € - 1 ml 0,82 €		  
 

Clarins

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  INCI
6 Paraffinum Liquidum/Mineral Oil
  Skin-care score 66
6 Diisostearyl Malate
6 Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
6 Cera Microcristallina/ Microcrystalline Wax
  Skin-care score 66
6 Ozokerite
  Skin-care score 66
2 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
6 Paraffin
  Skin-care score 66
6 Polyethylene
  Skin-care score 66
6 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
6 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6 Nylon-12
6 Ethyhexyl Palmitate
6 Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax
6 Rosa Damascene Flower Wax
6 Silica
6 Dimethyl Silylate
6 Aroma/Flavour
6 Tocopherol
6 Oryzanol
6 Tocopheryl Acetate
6 Tribehenin
6 Ceramide 3
6 Sorbitan Isostearate
6 Helianthus Annuus (Subflower) Seed Oil
6 Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
5 BHT
4 CI 15850
 
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6 to 66 Basis / Active ingredients
The main ingredient in this balsam, which is presented in tube form, is a paraffin oil. Three of the next 6 ingredients are petroleum substances. See the box below for details on the specific problems with paraffin additives in lipsticks. The small proportion of natural products such as Shea butter, caster oil and rose wax do not affect the basic character of this product which consists above all of synthetic ingredients. It also contains BHT, which is considered to present health risks, and an azo dye. Because a significant proportion of lipsticks is ingested, paraffin additives and questionable chemicals such as BHT and azo dyes need to be assessed with caution. Why this lip balm costs as much as it does is the manufacturer’s secret!
Preservation
No preservatives are used (this is not necessary for anhydrous formulations).
Organic quality
None apparent.
 
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A source of danger: mineral oils in lipsticks

The potential danger of mineral hydrocarbons (mineral oils and waxes) has been the subject of discussions for many years. It has been investigated for years in tests on animals. The conclusion is that mineral oils and waxes with a low viscosity and a short chain length can produce dangerous cumulative effects.

• Short and long-term studies on rats have revealed that dangerous cumulative effects can be produced by the oral administration of certain mineral hydrocarbons and waxes (with a low viscosity and a short chain length). In practical terms, this means that lipsticks which contain these ingredients, which are ingested in significant quantities, are a source of danger.

The following mineral hydrocarbons are contained in the INCI list:
• paraffinum liquidum • petrolatum • cera microcristallina • ozokerite • ceresin • paraffin.

According to the directive on dangerous substances 67/548/EEC petrolatum is classified as carcinogenic (category 2). However, the carcinogenic classification is not essential when the entire refining process is known and it can be proven that the original substance is not carcinogenic.
• It has therefore been decided on the basis of data concerning mineral hydrocarbons that lip and mouth care products should only contain mineral hydrocarbons whose ADI (acceptable daily intake) value has been determined. But is that sufficient?
• The consumer cannot check whether mineral oils and waxes which are believed to present health risks have actually been replaced by others, since only the above-mentioned INCI references are stated on the packaging.
• Why should the consumer accept mineral hydrocarbons at all? These cosmetic ingredients are among the cheapest and could easily be replaced by higher-quality, unproblematic ingredients.

 
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