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  Kosmetika: Die Themen
 
   
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Extra power & shine for the hair: What is contained in rinses, packs and treatments?

Standard hair care productions contain large quantities of chemicals. The highly creative preservatives used are to be viewed with a particularly critical eye. They include active chemicals with potential to irritate the skin, azo dyes and a whole range of chemicals which are damaging to the environment. Unfortunately, not all products which are certified as natural and organic cosmetics are of optimum natural quality.

  • Additional hair care products, known as conditioners, are available in many different preparations including rinses, packs, treatments, waxes and creams. In principle a treatment is simply a rinse in a more lasting form. It is left on the hair for longer and therefore produces a more intensive effect.

How do conditioners work?
Healthy hair is smooth and beautiful because a layer of platelets surrounds and protects the fibrillae, the long hyphae inside the hair. If this layer of platelets is no longer intact, the hair becomes rough and dry. If the fibrillae fray at the hair tips, the ends are said to be split.

  • Products such as rinses and cures form a thin layer around the hair and cover up damage with this coating. As an illustration, if we coat a rough rope with a layer of silicon, it will feel smoother and also look better than before.
  • Standard hair care products differ from certified natural and organic cosmetics in their use of ingredients. A film which coats the hair can, for example, be made from synthetic / chemical substances as well as natural ones.

Synthetic hair care raw materials
Synthetic raw materials which "repair" the hair, such as those used in standard cosmetics, include above all raw materials which are damaging to the environment such as silicon and so-called quats.

  • Quats: quats and polyquats (quaternary ammonium compounds) prevent static electricity from forming in the hair and make it easier to comb. They cannot be removed biologically, or are only partially removed, and generally have a slightly irritating effect on the skin. Quats can be identified, for example, by Inci terms such as quaternium (plus one number) and polyquaternium (plus one number).
  • Silicones and acrylates: silicones and acrylates are used as film-forming substances which coat the hair. This makes the hair feel smoother and look generally more beautiful. Silicones and acrylates are not only damaging to the environment but also to the hair. The layers are not always completely removed by washing. as shown in the following examples, some manufacturers use hard preservatives. These include halogen-organic compounds and preservatives which can release formaldehyde.

Natural hair care raw materials
Certified natural and organic cosmetics contain plant and animal oils and fats, proteins (e.g. derived from silk or wheat) or fruit wax. More recent interesting raw materials for hair care and styling products include special amino acids and amino acid compounds.

  • Natural fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol are frequently used as basic ingredients. They make hair care formulations smooth and have a certain capacity for accumulating on the hair. This means that the hair is smoother and easier to comb.

Is the product really certified?
Certain manufacturers of natural and organic cosmetics market hair care products which are not certified. This is because they contain chemicals which are not authorised for natural and organic cosmetics. Differences exist, however, between certified natural and organic cosmetics. ik.

Ecocert/Cosmebio: authorisation of chemicals similar to PEG
Products which are certified as “Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio” or which have an Ecocert label may also contain chemicals which do not comply with the requirements of natural and organic chemicals.

  • Products containing an ingredient such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are also Ecocert certified. The chemical procedure used to manufacture this type of ingredient is comparable to the harsh chemical procedure of ethoxylation.
    Other standards (BDIH, the new Standard NaTrue standard, Nature & Progrès) do not allow this type of ingredient. Hydroxypropylic substances such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are the simplest form of propylene-glycol ethers.

 

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  Logona: Repair Hair Treatment Jojoba
Certification: Certified Natural Cosmetic BDIH
150 ml 11,90 € - 100 ml 5,90 €
 
 
Logona: Repair Haarkur Jojoba Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua (Water)
1 - sehr gut Glyceryl Stearate SE
1 - sehr gut Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
1 - sehr gut Cetyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Behenyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Betaine
1 - sehr gut Arctium Lappa Seed Oil*
1 - sehr gut Betula Alba Leaf Extract*
1 - sehr gut Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract*
1 - sehr gut Lawsonia Inermis (Henna) Extract
1 - sehr gut Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
1 - sehr gut PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate
1 - sehr gut Lecithin
1 - sehr gut Lanolin
1 - sehr gut Glycerin
1 - sehr gut Lauryl Lactate
1 - sehr gut Mica
1 - sehr gut Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
1 - sehr gut Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
keine Wertung Parfum (Essential Oils)
1 - sehr gut Sodium Citrate
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid
1 - sehr gut Silver Oxide
1 - sehr gut CI 77891
2 - gut Limonene
2 - gut Linalool
* from organic farming
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666 Basis / ingredients
This hair treatment contains a range of authentic natural ingredients. The product contains a large proportion of jojoba oil (in 3rd position in the Inci list) as well as burdock seed oil, nettle extract, birch leaf extract, henna extract and safflower oil.

• Another important ingredient is betain (in 6th position in the Inci; holds in moisture and gives the hair added volume). The ingredient PCA ethyl cocoyl arginate is a natural antistatic agent.
• The three emulsifiers / tensides include disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl glutamate, two of the mildest and most environmentally-friendly organic cosmetics. Two natural fatty alcohols, lecithin, lanolin and glycerine complete the basic emulsion range.
This treatment product combines natural holistic ingredients such as plant oils and plant extracts with two individual beneficial hair care ingredients.


666 Preservation
This product does not contain any synthetic preservatives.

66 Organic quality
The main oil (jojoba oil) is of organic quality. The product also contains organic safflower oil, organic birch leaf extract and organic nettle extract.

 
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  Douce Nature: Lotion Capillaire
Certification: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
200 ml € 9.90 - 100 ml € 4.94
 
 
Douce Nature: Haarspülung (Lotion Capillaire) Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua
1 - sehr gut Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Buxus Sempervirens Extract*
1 - sehr gut Arctium Majus Extract*
1 - sehr gut Thymus Vulgaris Extract*
1 - sehr gut Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract*
1 - sehr gut Urtica Dioica Extract*
1 - sehr gut Salvia Officinalis Extract*
1 - sehr gut Glycerin
1 - sehr gut Caprylyl Capryl Glucoside
1 - sehr gut Acetum*
1 - sehr gut Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil*
1 - sehr gut Aspalathus Linearis Extract*
1 - sehr gut Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract*
1 - sehr gut Vitis Vinifera Extract*
1 - sehr gut Inulin
1 - sehr gut Xanthan Gum
1 - sehr gut Cartamus Tinctorius Extract
1 - sehr gut Genipa Americana Fruit Extract
1 - sehr gut Citrus Medica Limonum Oil*
1 - sehr gut Citrus Sinensis Oil*
1 - sehr gut Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Oil*
2 - gut Limonene
2 - gut Linalool
* from organic farming
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666 Basis / ingredients
In contrast to a treatment, a rinse is a product which consists above all of aqueous ingredients. In addition to water, this rinse consists of around 12% extracts and essential oils. It also contains vinegar, a small amount of jojoba oil, the ingredient inulin (a moisturising polysaccharide) and the natural thickener xanthan gum.

• This formulation contains a number of extracts with antibacterial and disinfecting properties (to combat dandruff) such as burdock root oil, thyme and rosemary extract. Other extracts include boxwood, nettle, sage and quinoa extracts, a Rooibos tea extract and an extract of Genipa Americana (antibacterial properties).

 


666 Preservation
The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives. It is likely that alcohol (in 2nd position in the Inci list) helps to preserve the product.

66 to Mittel Organic quality

The term organic quality can only be applied to a limited degree for such 'watery' products. According to the manufacturer, 11.47% of all the ingredients are obtained from organic sources. The organic share is therefore only slightly higher than the minimum 10% which must be recorded for the product to be certified as an organic cosmetic.

• The main organic ingredients are the extracts. If water did not have to be included in the organic calculation, as is the case with other certifications (BDIH, NaTrue, British Soil Association), a significantly lower organic share would be required.

 


 
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  BcomBio: Nourishing Oil Body and Hair
Certificaton: Cosmétique Eco Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
100 ml € 16.50
 
 
BcomBio: Nourishing Oil Body and Hair (Huile Satin) Spacer
   
  INCI
2 - gut Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
1 - sehr gut Squalane
1 - sehr gut Corylus Avelana (Hazel) Seed Oil*
1 - sehr gut Zea Mais (corn) Germ Oil
1 - sehr gut Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
1 - sehr gut Calendula Offincinalis Flower Extract
1 - sehr gut Tocopherol
1 - sehr gut Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
1 - sehr gut Glycine Soja Oil
keine Wertung Parfum
2 - gut Citral
2 - gut Limonene
2 - gut Linalool
* from organic farming
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66 Basis / ingredients
The main oil is not a genuine plant oil but the ester oil caprylic/capric triglyceride. The latter is translated on the reverse of the bottle as palm oil (huile de palme). This term is simply incorrect.

• Caprylic/capric triglyceride oil is based on palm oil. However, ester oils are synthetic and partially synthetic triglycerides. They are also referred to as neutral oils. The basic principle observed in their production is the following: an oil is divided into individual components and then combined with other components to create a new oil.
• Caprylic/capric triglyceride is produced in this way. Palm oil is saponified in the first stage. The required triglycerides are then obtained by re-synthesis with the hydrated, fractioned fatty acids. The final result of this chemical process is a new oil which has very little in common with the original substance, palm kernel oil.
• This product also contains smaller amounts of genuine plant oils. However, they only play a fairly minor role. It also contains smoothing squalane and calendula extract.
• €16.50 for 100 ml is an ambitious price for a product which is only certified on the Eco and not on the Organic quality level.

 


666 Preservation
No preservatives are required for an anhydrous formulation of this type.

Mittel Organic quality
The natural quality of an oil can be almost 100% and its organic quality can be particularly high. This product is thought to contain little more than 5% of organic oil (hazelnut oil). If it contained 10% of organic hazelnut oil, the product would have been certified as an organic cosmetic. To obtain Eco certification, as is the case of this product, the minimum organic share is only 5%.

 
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  K pour Karité: Hairstyling Cream
Certificaton: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
100 g € 8.90
 
 
K pour Karité: Hairstyling Cream Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua (Water)
1 - sehr gut Saccharum Officinarum/Sugra cane Extract*
1 - sehr gut Pseudotsuga Menziesii/Douglas Syr Water*
1 - sehr gut Glyceryl Stearate
1 - sehr gut Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
2 - gut Dicaprylyl Ether
1 - sehr gut Lauryl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Butyrospermum Parkii Butter*
1 - sehr gut Chondrus Crispus
keine Wertung Parfum
2 - gut Citral
2 - gut Geraniol
2 - gut Limonene
2 - gut Linalool
2 - gut Potassium Sorbate, C
2 - gut Sodium Benzoate, C
2 - gut Benzyl Alcohol, C
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid
1 - sehr gut Zingiber Officinalis Extract* 

* from organic farming
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666 to 66 Basis / ingredients
This styling cream is applied to dry, styled hair. The first 9 ingredients are relevant for the evaluation of the product’s basic quality and properties.

• Only four components of the essential oils used, three preservatives, one adjuvant (citric acid) and in last position a touch of ginger oil (0.1%) follow after the position of perfume.
• The main ingredients, apart from water, are a sugarcane extract (12%, moisturising), a plant water (10% eau de douglas), two emulsifiers, a small amount of ester oil, a fatty alcohol and a natural thickener (Chondrus Chrispus). The product only contains 1% of shea butter.
• The natural and organic quality of this product is guaranteed above all by the watery ingredients. At €8.90 for 100 ml, the product is quite modestly priced.
• The wording “Not tested on animals” does not prove anything at all as the testing of products in animal experiments is strictly prohibited in the EU.


66 Preservation
The preservatives used are potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol.

66 to Mittel Organic quality

According to the manufacturer, 23.04% of the ingredients are of organic origin. This proportion seems quite high, but most of these ingredients are “watery” ingredients including a plant water (10%) and 12% of sugarcane extract.

• A plant water is considered to contain a high proportion of plant products when the latter amounts to 5%. If the water share did not have to be included in the organic calculation, as is the case with other certifications (BDIH, NaTrue, British Soil Association), a significantly lower organic share would be required.


 
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  Bio Formule: Après Shampooing Balsem
Certificaton: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
150 ml € 6.90 - 100 ml € 4.60
 
 
Bio Formule: Après Shampooing Balsem Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua
1 - sehr gut Tilia Cordata Distillate*
1 - sehr gut Cetearyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Cetearyl Wheat Bran Glucosides
2 - gut Dicaprylyl Ether
1 - sehr gut Lauryl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Coco Glucoside
1 - sehr gut Glyceryl Oleate
1 - sehr gut Simmonsia Chinensis Oil*
1 - sehr gut Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract*
1 - sehr gut Equisetum Avernse Extract*
1 - sehr gut Juglans Regia Extract*
keine Wertung Parfum
4 - ausreichend Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
2 - gut Sodium Hydroxide
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid
2 - gut Sodium Benzoate, C
2 - gut Potassium Sorbate, C
1 - sehr gut Dehydroactic Acid, C
1 - sehr gut Benzyl Alcohol, C
2 - gut Linalool
2 - gut Limonene
* from organic farming
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66 Basis / ingredients
This product contains water and plant water, a fatty alcohol, an emulsifier and an ester oil.

• In addition to jojoba oil (Simmonsia Chinensis), it also contains 3 extracts (rosemary, horsetail and walnut).
• The ingredient hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (hair conditioner/ antistatic ingredient) is obtained through a harsh chemical procedure which is comparable to ethoxylation (PEG).
• The last 8 ingredients include two adjuvants, four preservatives and two fragrance components.


66 Preservation
The preservatives used are sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol.

Mittel Organic quality

Only 10% of the ingredients are of organic origin. This corresponds exactly to the minimum 10% share required for organic certification.

• This 10% consists of watery ingredients. The first one is the plant water in 2nd position in the Inci list. This accounts for the lion's share of the product's organic quality. If water did not have to be included in the organic calculation, as is the case with other certifications (BDIH, NaTrue, British Soil Association), the organic share would fall considerably from 10%.

 


 
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  Melvita: Masque capillaire
Certificaton: None
125 ml € 11.60 - 100 ml € 9.28
 
 
Melvita: Masque capillaire Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua /Water
1 - sehr gut Cetearyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Glycerin
1 - sehr gut Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
2 - gut Decyl Shea Butter Esters
1 - sehr gut Cera Alba
1 - sehr gut Squalane
4 - ausreichend Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
1 - sehr gut Olus Oil
4 - ausreichend Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
1 - sehr gut Mel (Honey)
1 - sehr gut Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract
keine Wertung Parfum (Fragrance)
4 - ausreichend Behentrimonium Methosulfate
1 - sehr gut Bertholletia Excelsa Nut Oil
4 - ausreichend Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
2 - gut Potassium Sorbate, C
4 - ausreichend Hydroxypropyl Guar
1 - sehr gut Decyl Glucoside
2 - gut Limonene
1 - sehr gut Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
2 - gut Linalool
2 - gut Sodium Hydroxide
2 - gut Eugenol
1 - sehr gut Dextrin
1 - sehr gut Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid

INCI source: www.melvita.fr
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GutGUT to Mittel Basis / ingredients
The main basic ingredients (a fatty alcohol, glycerine and Shea butter) set a positive tone, but…

• This Melvita product is not certified as a natural and organic product. Reference is made to the “Melvita Guarantee” which claims, among other things, that a product does not contain petrochemicals or PEGs. PEGs are ethoxylated raw materials.
• This product does not contain any ethoxylated raw materials. However, it does contain hydroxypropylated raw materials. The chemical procedure used to obtain these raw materials is comparable with ethoxylation.
• These raw materials include modified starch (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate), the ingredient (hair conditioner/antistatic product) hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and the thickener hydroxypropyl guar. Behentrimonium methosulfate (hair conditioner/antistatic product) is a quat.
• The product contains two natural ingredients, honey and a vegetable wax (apple). NB: a base evaluated as ‘good' not only contains natural ingredients but also incorporates certain active component chemicals.


Schlecht Preservation
Active component chemicals (such as quats) are used together with potassium sorbate for the preservation of this product.

Organic quality
None.

 
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  L’Occitane: Conditioner repairing
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 13.50 - 100 ml € 9.00
 
 
L’Occitane: Conditioner repairing Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua/Water
3 - befriedigend Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
3 - befriedigend Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
1 - sehr gut Cetearyl Alcohol
3 - befriedigend Cyclohexasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
1 - sehr gut Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
1 - sehr gut Tilia Platyphyllos Extract
keine Wertung Parfum/Fragrance
1 - sehr gut Angelica Archangelica Extract
1 - sehr gut Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
1 - sehr gut Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
1 - sehr gut Pogostemon Cablin Oil
1 - sehr gut Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
1 - sehr gut Helianthus Annuus (Subflower) Seed Oil
1 - sehr gut Tocopheryl Aceatate
1 - sehr gut Panthenol
1 - sehr gut Glycerin
1 - sehr gut Ethylhexyl Glycerin
4 - ausreichend Behentrimonium Chloride
2 - gut Limonene
2 - gut Linalool
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Mittel Basis / ingredients
This product consists of a high proportion of silicon oil, three extracts (summer lime, angelica, rosemary), a small amount of almond oil and a mixture of four essential oils. In other words, the main component, the base, consists of synthetic chemicals which are harmful to the environment. Only a small proportion of natural products have been used in this base.

• Two of the four plant oils and extracts come below the position of perfume which means that they are only contained in small quantities.
• This product is an example of how vigilant the consumer should be. A number of products in the Inci list are accompanied by asterisks (**) which indicate ingredients of a "natural origin". An asterisk has been given to behentrimonium chloride, but what is natural about this product? It is true that behenic acid is generally obtained from plants, but the chemical procedure of quaternisation is used to produce behentrimonium chloride. This is harsh chemistry.
• Behentrimonium chloride has a dual function: it is a hair care ingredient (quat) and also acts as a preservative.



Schlecht Preservation
Behentrimonium chloride also acts as a preservative.

Organic quality
None

 
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  Nivea Hair Care: Intense Repair
Certificaton: None
200 ml € 3.45 - 100 ml € 1.73
 
 
Nivea Hair Care: Intense Repair Aufbau-Spülung Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua
1 - sehr gut Stearyl Alcohol
3 - befriedigend Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
4 - ausreichend Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
1 - sehr gut Cetyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Simmondsia Chinensis Oil
1 - sehr gut Persea Gratissima Oil
1 - sehr gut Orbignya Oleifera
1 - sehr gut Hydrolyzed Silk
1 - sehr gut Oryzanol
4 - ausreichend Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
5 - mangelhaft C12-15 Pareth-3
2 - gut Cocamidopropyl Betaine
1 - sehr gut Coco Betaine
1 - sehr gut Lactic Acid
1 - sehr gut Sodium Chloride
3 - befriedigend Methylparaben, C
3 - befriedigend Propylparaben, C
4 - ausreichend Phenoxyethanol, C
2 - gut Benzyl Alcohol, C
3 - befriedigend Butylphenyl Methylpropional
2 - gut Geraniol
2 - gut Linalool
keine Wertung Parfum
 
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Mittel Basis / ingredients
In addition to silicon oil (which is damaging to the environment), this product also contains a number of natural and nature-based ingredients such as the fatty alcohol stearyl alcohol (in 2nd position in the Inci list) Jojoba oil, Aloe Vera gel (moisturising), a hair care product made from babassua palm and a film former obtained from silk.

• One emulsifier is ethoxylated and two ingredients (antistatic products) are quats. The product also contains a fragrance with a high allergy potential.
• For a standard product, the use of standard cosmetic chemistry is kept within limits. This product is reasonably priced compared with others.


Schlecht Preservation
The preservatives are two parabens, phenoxyethanol and benzy alcohol. Active component chemicals (such as quats) contribute to the preservation of this product.

Organic quality
None.

 
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  The Body Shop: Olive Glossing Conditioner
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 10.00 - 100 ml € 4.00
 
 
The Body Shop: Olive Glossing Conditioner Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua/Water
1 - sehr gut Cetearyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
1 - sehr gut Glycerin
5 - mangelhaft Ceteareth-20
4 - ausreichend Steartrimonium Methosulfate
2 - gut Benzyl Alcohol, C
3 - befriedigend Amodimethicone
  Environmental score 66
1 - sehr gut Mel (Honey)
2 - gut Isopropyl Alcohol
keine Wertung Parfum
3 - befriedigend Methylparaben, C
3 - befriedigend Propylparaben, C
1 - sehr gut Wheat Amino Acids
1 - sehr gut Sodium Chloride
1 - sehr gut Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract
5 - mangelhaft Disodium EDTA
1 - sehr gut Tocopherol
4 - ausreichend Cetrimonium Chloride
5 - mangelhaft Trideceth-12
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid
4 - ausreichend Phenoxyethanol, C
2 - gut Potassium Sorbate, C
 
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Mittel bis Schlecht Basis / ingredients
The only beneficial ingredients in this product are the fatty alcohol cetearyl alcohol, the moisturiser glycerine and olive oil.

• More negative ingredients include the ethoxylated emulsifier (ceteareth 20), two quats with hair care and softening properties (steartrimonium methosulfate and cetrimonium chloride), environmentally damaging silicon oil (amodimethicone), the extremely environmentally damaging EDTA and another ethoxylated emulsifier (trideceth 12).
• Natural ingredients include honey and wheat amino acids.


Schlecht Preservation
The ingredients which contribute to the preservation of this product include the preservative benzyl alcohol, two parabens, phenoxyethanol and potassium sorbate.

Organic quality
None.

 
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  John Frieda: Frizz-Ease Original Serum
Certificaton: None
50 ml € 15.50 - 100 ml € 31.00
 
 
John Frieda: Frizz-Ease Haar-Bändiger Original Serum Spacer
   
  INCI
3 - befriedigend Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
3 - befriedigend Dimethiconol
  Environmental score 66
5 - mangelhaft Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (LSF)
3 - befriedigend Paraffinum Liquidum
  Skin-care score 66
1 - sehr gut Hydrolyzed Silk
 
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Mittel to Schlecht Basis / ingredients
What can be said on this point? Only two silicon oils (damaging to the environment), one synthetic sunscreen, one mineral oil and otherwise only a film former derived from silk.

• How does this type of product work? The silicon oils accumulate on the hair which is "tamed" and is easier to comb. This can make the hair heavier and less full, particularly with fine hair.
• The question as to whether a sunscreen is of any benefit in this type of product is disputable. One thing is certain however: according to an Italian study, when a sunscreen of this type enters the sea, it contributes to the destruction of the coral reefs.
• What is the reason for the exorbitant price? The listed ingredients do not provide any explanation. The advertisers have managed to create an impressive image for this brand making it easy to sell at a high price.


Preservation
Not necessary for this anhydrous oil formulation.

Organic quality
None.

 
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  Kiehl’s: Hair Conditioner Formula 133
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 24.00 - 100 ml € 9.60
 
 
Kiehl’s: Pflegespülung Formel 133 Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua
4 - ausreichend Steapyrum Chloride
1 - sehr gut Cetyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Stearyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Sodium Chloride
1 - sehr gut Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
1 - sehr gut Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
3 - befriedigend Methylparaben, C
6 - mangelhaft Chlorhexidine Dihydrochloride, C
keine Wertung Parfum/Fragrance
keine Wertung Code F.I.L.: D5776/4
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Mittel Basis / ingredients

The hair is softened with a quat (antistatic product) in this formulation. This synthetic ingredient is positioned just after water in 2nd position in the Inci list.

• The next 5 ingredients are nature-based: two fatty alcohols, an adjuvant and two nature-based ingredients to tame the hair (silk and wheat protein).
• Formula 133 is a clever marketing gimmick. It sounds suitably scientific and is consistent with the F.I.L. code for an ingredient whose confidentiality is guaranteed. This is authorised but is not a recommendation for a product from the consumer’s point of view. Consumers should be aware of exactly which ingredients a product contains.


SchlechtSchlechtSchlecht Preservation
The basis/ingredients score is unfortunately counteracted by harsh preservation. The preservatives used in this product are methyl parabens and a halogenorganic compound (chlorhexidine dihydrochloride).

Organic quality
None

 
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  Herbal Essences: Après Shampooing Thym, germe de blé, Vitamine E
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 3.30 - 100 ml € 1.32
 
 
Herbal Essences: Après Shampooing Thym, germe de blé, Vitamine E Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua/Water
1 - sehr gut Stearyl Alcohol
3 - befriedigend Cyclopentasiloxane
  Environmental score 66
1 - sehr gut Cetyl Alcohol
4 - ausreichend Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
1 - sehr gut Glutamic Acid
3 - befriedigend Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
keine Wertung Parfum
2 - gut Benzyl Alcohol, C
1 - sehr gut Sodium Chloride
5 - mangelhaft DMDM Hydantoin, C
5 - mangelhaft EDTA
2 - gut Dipentene
3 - befriedigend Buthyphenyl Methylpropional
2 - gut Hexyl Cinnamal Duft
2 - gut Propylene Glycol
3 - befriedigend Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
2 - gut Citronellol
1 - sehr gut Thymus Vulgaris
1 - sehr gut Triticum Vulgare
1 - sehr gut Tocopherol
1 - sehr gut Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
4 - ausreichend Phenoxyethanol
1 - sehr gut Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
4 - ausreichend CI 15510
3 - befriedigend Methylparaben, C
4 - ausreichend CI 14700
2 - gut Potassium Sorbate, C
3 - befriedigend Butylparaben, C
3 - befriedigend Ethylparaben,C
3 - befriedigend Propylparaben, C
3 - befriedigend Isobutylparaben, C
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Mittel to Schlecht Basis / ingredients
The basis for this product consists of a mixture of nature-based ingredients and (environmentally damaging) silicons. The amino acid glutamic acid is deserving of a positive evaluation.

• The most important (chemical) hair conditioner is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
• The preservative benzyl alcohol (in 9th position in the Inci list) can only be used up to a maximum level of 1%. All the ingredients listed after benzy alcohol are therefore used in very small quantities. These ingredients in mini doses also include two plant-based ingredients (triticum vulgare/wheat germ oil and thymus vulgaris/thyme extract).
• Two fragrances have a high allergy potential.
• Unfortunately, two azo dyes and the extremely environmentally damaging EDTA are also used.


SchlechtSchlecht Preservation
The preservatives used are benzyl alcohol, DMDM hydantoin, which can release formaldehyde, five parabens, phenoxyethanol and potassium sorbate.

Organic quality
Keine

 
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  Klorane: Fortifying and detangling conditioning balm
Certificaton: None
150 ml € 6.75 - 100 ml € 4.50
 
 
Klorane: Baume après-shampooing Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Water/Aqua
3 - befriedigend Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
1 - sehr gut Cetyl Alcohol
1 - sehr gut Cinchona Succirubra Bark Extract
4 - ausreichend Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
1 - sehr gut Biotin
1 - sehr gut Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit
1 - sehr gut Caramel
5 - mangelhaft DMDM Hydantoin, C
keine Wertung Fragrance/Parfum
1 - sehr gut Panthenol
2 - gut Pyridoxine HCL Wirkstoff
4 - ausreichend Red 4/CI 14700
2 - gut Sodium Hydroxide
4 - ausreichend Steralkonium Chloride
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Mittel to Schlecht Basis / ingredients
A considerable amount of information is provided on the back of the product concerning the hair-strengthening cinchona bark extract (extrait de quinquina, de son écorce). Reference is also made to vitamins.

• The main ingredients consist of well-established (environmentally harmful) chemicals such as silicon oils. They are followed by a fatty alcohol, an extract and a thickener obtained through a harsh chemical procedure (hydroxypropyl methylcellulose).
• Ingredients with a positive evaluation include biotin (vitamin H), a small amount of Shea butter, panthenol (provitamin B5) and pyridoxine HCL.
• Ingredients which are viewed more negatively include an azo dye and a quat (the hair conditioner steralkonium chloride).


SchlechtSchlecht Preservation
The preservative DMDM hydantoin belongs to the group of formaldehyde donors.

Organic quality
None.

 
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  Phyto: Phytojoba Masque
Certificaton: None
200 ml € 24.00 - 100 ml € 12.00
 
 
Phyto: Phytojoba Masque Spacer
   
  INCI
1 - sehr gut Angelica Archangelica Root Extract
keine Wertung Aqua/Water
1 - sehr gut Cetearyl Alcohol
4 - ausreichend Cetrimonium Chloride
1 - sehr gut Cetyl Alcohol
2 - gut Propylene Glycol
4 - ausreichend Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate
1 - sehr gut Decyl Glucoside
3 - befriedigend Dimethicone
  Environmental score 66
1 - sehr gut Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
1 - sehr gut Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil
4 - ausreichend Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
5 - mangelhaft Ceteareth-20
5 - mangelhaft Trideceth-12
5 - mangelhaft Tetrasodium EDTA
3 - befriedigend Amodimethicone
  Environmental score 66
keine Wertung Fragrance/Parfum
2 - gut Limonene
2 - gut Linalool
5 - mangelhaft Benzophenone-4
4 - ausreichend Phenoxyethanol, C
3 - befriedigend Butylparaben, C
3 - befriedigend Ethylparaben, C
3 - befriedigend Isobutylparaben
3 - befriedigend Methylparaben, C
3 - befriedigend Propylparaben, C
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid
INCI source: www.beaute-test.com
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Schlecht Basis / ingredients
The term “phyto” has a very natural feel to it. However, this product contains its share of standard chemicals.

• At the bottom of the list, after fragrance/perfume, there are 2 scents, 5 preservatives, a synthetic sunscreen and an adjuvant.
• Jojoba oil plays a major role in terms of this product’s reputation. Unfortunately, it is only contained in a small quantity in this product. Jojoba oil is only in 8th position in the Inci list.
• An extract (angelica) is at the top of the Inci list followed by water, a fatty alcohol and the first chemical softener (the quat, cetrimonium chloride).
• Other synthetic / chemical ingredients include a synthetic moisturiser (propylene glycol), another antistatic product (quat), the synthetic film former guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (quat), two ethoxylated emulsifiers, the extremely environmentally damaging tetrasodium EDTA and another environmentally damaging silicon oil.
• The product also contains a synthetic sunscreen and six synthetic preservatives.


Schlecht Preservation
The preservatives used are phenoxyethanol and five parabens. Active component chemicals (such as quats) contribute to the preservation of the product.

Organic quality
None

 
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  Gliss Kur: Oil Nutritive
Certificaton: None
50 ml € 5.99 - 100 ml € 11.98
 
 
Gliss Kur: Oil Nutrive Haarspitzenfluid Anti Spliss Spacer
   
  INCI
3 - befriedigend Cyclomethicone
  Environmental score 66
keine Wertung Aqua
3 - befriedigend Dimethiconol
  Environmental score 66
2 - gut Propylene Glycol
5 - mangelhaft Quaternium 80
5 - mangelhaft Laureth-4
2 - gut Hydroxyethylcellulose
4 - ausreichend Phenoxyethanol, C
5 - mangelhaft Polyquaternium-37
keine Wertung Parfum
5 - mangelhaft Polyquaternium-10
2 - gut Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
1 - sehr gut Panthenol
3 - befriedigend Methylparaben, C
4 - ausreichend Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
1 - sehr gut Argania Spinsosa Oil
1 - sehr gut Butyrospermum Parkii
1 - sehr gut Lactic Acid
5 - mangelhaft Trideceth-6
2 - gut Geraniol
2 - gut Hydrolyzed Keratin
2 - gut Linalool
2 - gut Benzyl Salicylate
2 - gut Citronellol
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid
2 - gut Isoeugenol
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Schlecht to SchlechtSchlecht Basis / ingredients

The basis of this product consists of two environmentally damaging silicon oils and pentylene glycol (synthetic moisturiser). Laureth 4 and tideceth 6 are ethoxylated emulsifiers (PEGs).

• The ingredients are part of the standard range of cosmetic chemicals and include four quats (quaternium 80, polyquaternium 37, polyquaternium 10 and laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein).
• The products also contains, from the lower part of the Inci list, a small dose of natural products (argan oil and Shea butter). A positive evaluation is also given to the amino acid ingredient hydrolyzed keratin and panthenol (vitamin B5).


Schlecht Preservation
The preservatives used are phenoxyethanol and methylparaben. Active component chemicals (such as quats) contribute to the preservation of this product.

Organic quality
None.

 
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  Yves Rocher: Phytum Actif Repairing Conditioner
Certificaton: None
150 ml € 4.43 - 100 ml € 2.95
 
 
Yves Rocher: Phytum Actif Après-Shampooing Réparateur Spacer
   
  INCI
keine Wertung Aqua
1 - sehr gut Cetyl Alcohol
4 - ausreichend Behentrimonium Chloride
5 - mangelhaft PPG-3 Myristyl Ether
1 - sehr gut Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
5 - mangelhaft Quaternium 80
4 - ausreichend Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
1 - sehr gut Parfum
3 - befriedigend Methylparaben, C
4 - ausreichend Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
3 - befriedigend Amodimethicone
  Environmental score 66
4 - ausreichend Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
1 - sehr gut Citric Acid
5 - mangelhaft Polyquaternium 16
1 - sehr gut Arginine
3 - befriedigend Propylparaben, C
2 - gut Linalool
2 - gut Benzyl Salicylate
2 - gut Coumarin
2 - gut Amyl Cinnamal
5 - mangelhaft Trideceth-12
1 - sehr gut Simmondsia Chinensis
4 - ausreichend Cetrimonium Chloride
1 - sehr gut Phospholipids
2 - gut Propylene Glycol
5 - mangelhaft Triethanolamine
1 - sehr gut Chondrus Crispus
3 - befriedigend Carbomer
  Environmental score 66
4 - ausreichend CI 19140
4 - ausreichend CI 14700
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Schlecht to SchlechtSchlecht Basis / ingredients
How has Yves Rocher managed to create its herbal image? Is it because of the sophisticated corporate branding used with products such as this one? Its label reads “100% plant-based liposomes” (Liposomes 100% végétaux). The product does indeed contain liposomes, but what about all the other ingredients?

• The search for genuine plant-based ingredients in this product is almost in vain. A small amount of jojoba oil (simmondsia chinensis) can be found far down the Inci list in 22nd position. By comparison, the preservative methyl paraben is in 9th position in the Inci list.
• After water comes a fatty alcohol. Water and fatty alcohol form the basis of this product. They are followed by behentrimonium chloride, the first active ingredient (a quat as an antistatic product), followed by an ethoxylated raw material (PPG-3 myristyl ether), an ester oil, a second quat and a hydroxypropylated film former. Harsh chemicals are therefore dominant.
• What is more, cetrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium wheat protein, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and polyquaternium 16 also belong to this "chemical melting pot".
• Arginine (moisturising) and phospholips (to improve the moisture status) are ingredients worthy of a positive evaluation.
• The buffer substance triethanolamine can produce dangerous nitrosamines. The product also contains two azo dyes.


Schlecht Preservation
The preservatives used are two parabens. Active component chemicals (such as quats) contribute to the preservation of the product.

Organic quality
None.

 
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