Extra power & shine for the hair: What is contained in rinses, packs and treatments?
Standard hair care productions contain large quantities of chemicals. The highly creative preservatives used are to be viewed with a particularly critical eye. They include active chemicals with potential to irritate the skin, azo dyes and a whole range of chemicals which are damaging to the environment. Unfortunately, not all products which are certified as natural and organic cosmetics are of optimum natural quality.
- Additional hair care products, known as conditioners, are available in many different preparations including rinses, packs, treatments, waxes and creams. In principle a treatment is simply a rinse in a more lasting form. It is left on the hair for longer and therefore produces a more intensive effect.
How do conditioners work?
Healthy hair is smooth and beautiful because a layer of platelets surrounds and protects the fibrillae, the long hyphae inside the hair. If this layer of platelets is no longer intact, the hair becomes rough and dry. If the fibrillae fray at the hair tips, the ends are said to be split.
- Products such as rinses and cures form a thin layer around the hair and cover up damage with this coating. As an illustration, if we coat a rough rope with a layer of silicon, it will feel smoother and also look better than before.
- Standard hair care products differ from certified natural and organic cosmetics in their use of ingredients. A film which coats the hair can, for example, be made from synthetic / chemical substances as well as natural ones.
Synthetic hair care raw materials
Synthetic raw materials which "repair" the hair, such as those used in standard cosmetics, include above all raw materials which are damaging to the environment such as silicon and so-called quats.
- Quats: quats and polyquats (quaternary ammonium compounds) prevent static electricity from forming in the hair and make it easier to comb. They cannot be removed biologically, or are only partially removed, and generally have a slightly irritating effect on the skin. Quats can be identified, for example, by Inci terms such as quaternium (plus one number) and polyquaternium (plus one number).
- Silicones and acrylates: silicones and acrylates are used as film-forming substances which coat the hair. This makes the hair feel smoother and look generally more beautiful. Silicones and acrylates are not only damaging to the environment but also to the hair. The layers are not always completely removed by washing. as shown in the following examples, some manufacturers use hard preservatives. These include halogen-organic compounds and preservatives which can release formaldehyde.
Natural hair care raw materials
Certified natural and organic cosmetics contain plant and animal oils and fats, proteins (e.g. derived from silk or wheat) or fruit wax. More recent interesting raw materials for hair care and styling products include special amino acids and amino acid compounds.
- Natural fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol are frequently used as basic ingredients. They make hair care formulations smooth and have a certain capacity for accumulating on the hair. This means that the hair is smoother and easier to comb.
Is the product really certified?
Certain manufacturers of natural and organic cosmetics market hair care products which are not certified. This is because they contain chemicals which are not authorised for natural and organic cosmetics. Differences exist, however, between certified natural and organic cosmetics. ik.
Ecocert/Cosmebio: authorisation of chemicals similar to PEG
Products which are certified as “Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio” or which have an Ecocert label may also contain chemicals which do not comply with the requirements of natural and organic chemicals.
- Products containing an ingredient such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are also Ecocert certified. The chemical procedure used to manufacture this type of ingredient is comparable to the harsh chemical procedure of ethoxylation.
Other standards (BDIH, the new Standard NaTrue standard, Nature & Progrès) do not allow this type of ingredient. Hydroxypropylic substances such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are the simplest form of propylene-glycol ethers.
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Logona: Repair Hair Treatment Jojoba
Certification: Certified Natural Cosmetic BDIH
150 ml 11,90 € - 100 ml 5,90 € |
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INCI |
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Aqua (Water) |
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Glyceryl Stearate SE |
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Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil* |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Behenyl Alcohol |
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Betaine |
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Arctium Lappa Seed Oil* |
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Betula Alba Leaf Extract* |
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Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract* |
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Lawsonia Inermis (Henna) Extract |
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Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil |
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PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate |
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Lecithin |
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Lanolin |
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Glycerin |
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Lauryl Lactate |
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Mica |
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Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate |
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Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate |
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Parfum (Essential Oils) |
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Sodium Citrate |
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Citric Acid |
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Silver Oxide |
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CI 77891 |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
| * from organic farming |
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Douce Nature: Lotion Capillaire
Certification: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
200 ml € 9.90 - 100 ml € 4.94 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Alcohol |
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Buxus Sempervirens Extract* |
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Arctium Majus Extract* |
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Thymus Vulgaris Extract* |
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Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract* |
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Urtica Dioica Extract* |
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Salvia Officinalis Extract* |
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Glycerin |
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Caprylyl Capryl Glucoside |
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Acetum* |
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Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil* |
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Aspalathus Linearis Extract* |
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Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract* |
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Vitis Vinifera Extract* |
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Inulin |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Cartamus Tinctorius Extract |
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Genipa Americana Fruit Extract |
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Citrus Medica Limonum Oil* |
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Citrus Sinensis Oil* |
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Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Oil* |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
| * from organic farming |
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  Basis / ingredients |
| In contrast to a treatment, a rinse is a product which consists above all of aqueous ingredients. In addition to water, this rinse consists of around 12% extracts and essential oils. It also contains vinegar, a small amount of jojoba oil, the ingredient inulin (a moisturising polysaccharide) and the natural thickener xanthan gum.
• This formulation contains a number of extracts with antibacterial and disinfecting properties (to combat dandruff) such as burdock root oil, thyme and rosemary extract. Other extracts include boxwood, nettle, sage and quinoa extracts, a Rooibos tea extract and an extract of Genipa Americana (antibacterial properties). |
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  Preservation |
| The product does not contain any synthetic preservatives. It is likely that alcohol (in 2nd position in the Inci list) helps to preserve the product. |
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 to Organic quality |
The term organic quality can only be applied to a limited degree for such 'watery' products. According to the manufacturer, 11.47% of all the ingredients are obtained from organic sources. The organic share is therefore only slightly higher than the minimum 10% which must be recorded for the product to be certified as an organic cosmetic.
• The main organic ingredients are the extracts. If water did not have to be included in the organic calculation, as is the case with other certifications (BDIH, NaTrue, British Soil Association), a significantly lower organic share would be required. |
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BcomBio: Nourishing Oil Body and Hair
Certificaton: Cosmétique Eco Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
100 ml € 16.50 |
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INCI |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride |
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Squalane |
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Corylus Avelana (Hazel) Seed Oil* |
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Zea Mais (corn) Germ Oil |
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Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil |
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Calendula Offincinalis Flower Extract |
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Tocopherol |
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Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil |
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Glycine Soja Oil |
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Parfum |
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Citral |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
| * from organic farming |
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K pour Karité: Hairstyling Cream
Certificaton: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
100 g € 8.90 |
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INCI |
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Aqua (Water) |
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Saccharum Officinarum/Sugra cane Extract* |
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Pseudotsuga Menziesii/Douglas Syr Water* |
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Glyceryl Stearate |
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Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate |
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Dicaprylyl Ether |
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Lauryl Alcohol |
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Butyrospermum Parkii Butter* |
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Chondrus Crispus |
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Parfum |
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Citral |
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Geraniol |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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Sodium Benzoate, C |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Citric Acid |
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Zingiber Officinalis Extract*
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| * from organic farming |
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  to  Basis / ingredients |
| This styling cream is applied to dry, styled hair. The first 9 ingredients are relevant for the evaluation of the product’s basic quality and properties.
• Only four components of the essential oils used, three preservatives, one adjuvant (citric acid) and in last position a touch of ginger oil (0.1%) follow after the position of perfume.
• The main ingredients, apart from water, are a sugarcane extract (12%, moisturising), a plant water (10% eau de douglas), two emulsifiers, a small amount of ester oil, a fatty alcohol and a natural thickener (Chondrus Chrispus). The product only contains 1% of shea butter.
• The natural and organic quality of this product is guaranteed above all by the watery ingredients. At €8.90 for 100 ml, the product is quite modestly priced.
• The wording “Not tested on animals” does not prove anything at all as the testing of products in animal experiments is strictly prohibited in the EU. |
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 Preservation |
| The preservatives used are potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol. |
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 to Organic quality |
According to the manufacturer, 23.04% of the ingredients are of organic origin. This proportion seems quite high, but most of these ingredients are “watery” ingredients including a plant water (10%) and 12% of sugarcane extract.
• A plant water is considered to contain a high proportion of plant products when the latter amounts to 5%. If the water share did not have to be included in the organic calculation, as is the case with other certifications (BDIH, NaTrue, British Soil Association), a significantly lower organic share would be required. |
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Bio Formule: Après Shampooing Balsem
Certificaton: Cosmétique Bio Charte Cosmebio (Ecocert)
150 ml € 6.90 - 100 ml € 4.60 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Tilia Cordata Distillate* |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Cetearyl Wheat Bran Glucosides |
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Dicaprylyl Ether |
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Lauryl Alcohol |
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Coco Glucoside |
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Glyceryl Oleate |
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Simmonsia Chinensis Oil* |
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Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract* |
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Equisetum Avernse Extract* |
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Juglans Regia Extract* |
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Parfum |
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Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride |
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Sodium Hydroxide |
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Citric Acid |
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Sodium Benzoate, C |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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Dehydroactic Acid, C |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Linalool |
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Limonene |
| * from organic farming |
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 Basis / ingredients |
| This product contains water and plant water, a fatty alcohol, an emulsifier and an ester oil.
• In addition to jojoba oil (Simmonsia Chinensis), it also contains 3 extracts (rosemary, horsetail and walnut).
• The ingredient hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (hair conditioner/ antistatic ingredient) is obtained through a harsh chemical procedure which is comparable to ethoxylation (PEG).
• The last 8 ingredients include two adjuvants, four preservatives and two fragrance components. |
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 Preservation |
| The preservatives used are sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol. |
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Organic quality |
Only 10% of the ingredients are of organic origin. This corresponds exactly to the minimum 10% share required for organic certification.
• This 10% consists of watery ingredients. The first one is the plant water in 2nd position in the Inci list. This accounts for the lion's share of the product's organic quality. If water did not have to be included in the organic calculation, as is the case with other certifications (BDIH, NaTrue, British Soil Association), the organic share would fall considerably from 10%. |
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Melvita: Masque capillaire
Certificaton: None
125 ml € 11.60 - 100 ml € 9.28 |
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INCI |
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Aqua /Water |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Glycerin |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) |
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Decyl Shea Butter Esters |
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Cera Alba |
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Squalane |
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Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate |
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Olus Oil |
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Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride |
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Mel (Honey) |
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Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract |
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Parfum (Fragrance) |
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Behentrimonium Methosulfate |
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Bertholletia Excelsa Nut Oil |
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Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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Hydroxypropyl Guar |
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Decyl Glucoside |
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Limonene |
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Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil |
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Linalool |
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Sodium Hydroxide |
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Eugenol |
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Dextrin |
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Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract |
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Citric Acid
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| INCI source: www.melvita.fr |
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L’Occitane: Conditioner repairing
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 13.50 - 100 ml € 9.00 |
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Nivea Hair Care: Intense Repair
Certificaton: None
200 ml € 3.45 - 100 ml € 1.73 |
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The Body Shop: Olive Glossing Conditioner
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 10.00 - 100 ml € 4.00 |
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INCI |
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Aqua/Water |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil |
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Glycerin |
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Ceteareth-20 |
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Steartrimonium Methosulfate |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Amodimethicone |
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Environmental score   |
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Mel (Honey) |
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Isopropyl Alcohol |
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Parfum |
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Methylparaben, C |
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Propylparaben, C |
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Wheat Amino Acids |
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Sodium Chloride |
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Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract |
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Disodium EDTA |
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Tocopherol |
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Cetrimonium Chloride |
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Trideceth-12 |
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Citric Acid |
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Phenoxyethanol, C |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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John Frieda: Frizz-Ease Original Serum
Certificaton: None
50 ml € 15.50 - 100 ml € 31.00 |
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Kiehl’s: Hair Conditioner Formula 133
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 24.00 - 100 ml € 9.60 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Steapyrum Chloride |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Stearyl Alcohol |
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Sodium Chloride |
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Hydrolyzed Soy Protein |
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Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein |
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Methylparaben, C |
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Chlorhexidine Dihydrochloride, C |
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Parfum/Fragrance |
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Code F.I.L.: D5776/4 |
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Herbal Essences: Après Shampooing Thym, germe de blé, Vitamine E
Certificaton: None
250 ml € 3.30 - 100 ml € 1.32 |
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INCI |
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Aqua/Water |
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Stearyl Alcohol |
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Cyclopentasiloxane |
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Environmental score   |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine |
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Glutamic Acid |
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Dimethicone |
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Environmental score   |
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Parfum |
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Benzyl Alcohol, C |
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Sodium Chloride |
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DMDM Hydantoin, C |
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EDTA |
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Dipentene |
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Buthyphenyl Methylpropional |
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Hexyl Cinnamal Duft |
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Propylene Glycol |
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Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde |
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Citronellol |
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Thymus Vulgaris |
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Triticum Vulgare |
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Tocopherol |
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Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein |
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Phenoxyethanol |
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Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch |
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CI 15510 |
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Methylparaben, C |
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CI 14700 |
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Potassium Sorbate, C |
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Butylparaben, C |
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Ethylparaben,C |
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Propylparaben, C |
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Isobutylparaben, C |
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Klorane: Fortifying and detangling conditioning balm
Certificaton: None
150 ml € 6.75 - 100 ml € 4.50 |
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INCI |
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Water/Aqua |
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Dimethicone |
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Environmental score   |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Cinchona Succirubra Bark Extract |
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Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose |
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Biotin |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit |
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Caramel |
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DMDM Hydantoin, C |
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Fragrance/Parfum |
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Panthenol |
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Pyridoxine HCL Wirkstoff |
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Red 4/CI 14700 |
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Sodium Hydroxide |
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Steralkonium Chloride |
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Phyto: Phytojoba Masque
Certificaton: None
200 ml € 24.00 - 100 ml € 12.00 |
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INCI |
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Angelica Archangelica Root Extract |
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Aqua/Water |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Cetrimonium Chloride |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Propylene Glycol |
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Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate |
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Decyl Glucoside |
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Dimethicone |
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Environmental score   |
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Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil |
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Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil |
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Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride |
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Ceteareth-20 |
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Trideceth-12 |
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Tetrasodium EDTA |
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Amodimethicone |
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Environmental score   |
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Fragrance/Parfum |
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Limonene |
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Linalool |
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Benzophenone-4 |
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Phenoxyethanol, C |
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Butylparaben, C |
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Ethylparaben, C |
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Isobutylparaben |
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Methylparaben, C |
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Propylparaben, C |
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Citric Acid |
| INCI source: www.beaute-test.com |
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Basis / ingredients |
| The term “phyto” has a very natural feel to it. However, this product contains its share of standard chemicals.
• At the bottom of the list, after fragrance/perfume, there are 2 scents, 5 preservatives, a synthetic sunscreen and an adjuvant.
• Jojoba oil plays a major role in terms of this product’s reputation. Unfortunately, it is only contained in a small quantity in this product. Jojoba oil is only in 8th position in the Inci list.
• An extract (angelica) is at the top of the Inci list followed by water, a fatty alcohol and the first chemical softener (the quat, cetrimonium chloride).
• Other synthetic / chemical ingredients include a synthetic moisturiser (propylene glycol), another antistatic product (quat), the synthetic film former guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (quat), two ethoxylated emulsifiers, the extremely environmentally damaging tetrasodium EDTA and another environmentally damaging silicon oil.
• The product also contains a synthetic sunscreen and six synthetic preservatives. |
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Preservation |
| The preservatives used are phenoxyethanol and five parabens. Active component chemicals (such as quats) contribute to the preservation of the product. |
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| Organic quality |
| None |
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Gliss Kur: Oil Nutritive
Certificaton: None
50 ml € 5.99 - 100 ml € 11.98 |
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INCI |
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Cyclomethicone |
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Environmental score   |
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Aqua |
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Dimethiconol |
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Environmental score   |
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Propylene Glycol |
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Quaternium 80 |
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Laureth-4 |
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Hydroxyethylcellulose |
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Phenoxyethanol, C |
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Polyquaternium-37 |
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Parfum |
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Polyquaternium-10 |
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Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate |
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Panthenol |
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Methylparaben, C |
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Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein |
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Argania Spinsosa Oil |
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Butyrospermum Parkii |
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Lactic Acid |
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Trideceth-6 |
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Geraniol |
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Hydrolyzed Keratin |
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Linalool |
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Benzyl Salicylate |
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Citronellol |
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Citric Acid |
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Isoeugenol |
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Yves Rocher: Phytum Actif Repairing Conditioner
Certificaton: None
150 ml € 4.43 - 100 ml € 2.95 |
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INCI |
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Aqua |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Behentrimonium Chloride |
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PPG-3 Myristyl Ether |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride |
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Quaternium 80 |
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Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose |
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Parfum |
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Methylparaben, C |
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Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein |
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Amodimethicone |
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Environmental score   |
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Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride |
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Citric Acid |
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Polyquaternium 16 |
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Arginine |
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Propylparaben, C |
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Linalool |
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Benzyl Salicylate |
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Coumarin |
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Amyl Cinnamal |
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Trideceth-12 |
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Simmondsia Chinensis |
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Cetrimonium Chloride |
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Phospholipids |
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Propylene Glycol |
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Triethanolamine |
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Chondrus Crispus |
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Carbomer |
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Environmental score   |
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CI 19140 |
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CI 14700 |
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